TECH NOTES

Care Label Placement
Care Labels Placement, Attachment and What to Check on a Sample A sample arrives. You check the fit, the seams, the topstitching, the trims. The care label is a strip of tape inside a side seam, and it takes about

Types of Sewing Machines
Types of Sewing Machines What Designers and Product Developers Actually Need to Know You will probably never press the pedal. But every seam you design is, whether you know it or not, an instruction to a machine. And if no

How to Analyse a Clothing Brand Before an Interview or Pitch
How to Analyse a Clothing Brand Before an Interview or Pitch A step-by-step way to analyse a fashion brand before your next interview or client pitch. Stand out by mastering brand analysis before your interview. There’s a moment in almost

Topstitching: Types, Purposes and Uses
Topstitching: Types, Purposes and Uses A Practical Guide to Naming, Choosing and Specifying Topstitches Last update: June 2026 “Topstitch, edgestitch, understitch, stitch-in-the-ditch: four words designers use loosely, and four different operations a factory will sew exactly as labelled. Mixing them

Why Quality Breaks When Your Team Grows
Why Quality Breaks When Your Team Grows… And How Standardization Fixes It How big brands reduce rectifications and protect consistency at scale… without adding more meetings. Same style. Three vendors. Three prototypes. Three different constructions. The schedule isn’t failing because

Sewing Defects: Diagnose, Prevent, and QC Like a Pro
Sewing Defects The Complete Guide for Product Developers, Technical Designers, and QC Teams [ TECHNICAL VOCABULARY SERIES ] Last Update: October 4, 2025 Translate Page Sewing defects aren’t just stitching issues. They’re brand risks. From the first sample to full

How Much Does Your Garment Really Cost?
How Much Does Your Garment Really Cost? GSD, SMV & ASCS Explained for Product Developers Last update: September 6, 2025 Translate Page How many minutes does it really take to make the garment you’re developing?If the answer is accurate, it

Seam Allowance Finishing & Reinforcements: How to Choose the Right Technique
Seam Allowance Finishing & Reinforcements How to Choose the Right Technique Last update: August 31, 2025 Translate Page Before you decide how wide to make the seam allowance, you need to choose how you will finish it. The way you

Checklist for Your First Meeting with Suppliers
Checklist for Your First Meeting with Suppliers A Practical Guide for Fashion Brands. Translate Page The first meeting with a supplier can feel a bit intimidating, especially when you’re aiming to ensure quality, production timelines, and reasonable costs. But arriving

Heat-Sealed Seams vs Traditional Seams: What to Use, When, and Why
Heat-Sealed vs. Traditional Seams: Pros, Cons, and When to Use Each From waterproofing failures to ISO compliance: a technical guide to seam sealing Translate Page Poorly sealed seams cause 82% of waterproofing failures reported in after-sales services. Before your next

Why We Created the ABC Seam Code System (ASCS)
Born from Frustration: Why We Created the ABC Seam Code System (ASCS) How a product developer’s daily struggles led to the creation of a clear, easy-to-use seam coding system. Translate Page You open the sample. You turn the garment inside

Garment Assembly Sheets
Garment Assembly Sheets [ Tech Pack Series ] Last Update: June 14, 2025 Translate Page A tech pack links a designer’s creative vision with the actual production of the garment. When done properly, it accelerates timelines, reduces sampling costs, and

3 Fancy Seams for Shorts Bottoms
Shorts That Sell Luxury: 3 Finishes to Upgrade Your Design [ Fancy Seams Series ] How to turn a simple short into a high-end garment [ Translate this article into any language here ] How do you turn a basic

Seam Allowance Explained
Seam Allowance Explained Precision Standards for Apparel-Industry Professionals [ Translate this article into any language here ] In technical design, every millimetre matters. Seam allowance is one of those invisible elements that defines whether a garment is made right… or

Stitch Classification Guide: ISO 4915 vs ASCS
Complete Guide to Stitch Types Classification ISO 4915 and the ASCS System Clear communication ensures product quality and consistency. To referring stitches in particular, you can use two international standard systems: the ISO 4915 standard and the ABC Seams Code

Prototype Mistakes in Fashion Design
Prototyping Mistakes Why doesn’t your prototype look like what you designed? Learn about the most frequent mistakes in garment prototyping and how to fix them—before it’s too late! Garment prototyping is a critical phase in fashion collection development, as it

Flat Sketches
Flat Sketches: From Sketch to Final Product Their Importance in the Fashion Industry. By Soidée Romero In fashion, throughout the design cycle, different types of drawings can be used, them we can mention: the quick hand sketches made by hand

Garment Returns: Causes and How to Avoid Them
Garment Returns Why Do Customers Return Your Clothes?… Here’s How to Fix It. Imagine this: A customer eagerly unpacks their newly purchased jacket, only to find a missing button and uneven stitching along the seams. Disappointed, they initiate a return.

Seam Classification -Updated!
Seam Classification A Guide to Mastering Seam Types & Selection. Last update: February 20, 2025 Did you know that most fashion designers use only 23% of the available seam types? Even more surprising, many are unaware of over 40% of

Sewing and Passion for Sustainability
Sewing and Passion Laura’s Journey to Sustainable Fashion What happens when passion meets determination? Laura is living proof. From a young age, her drawings and attention to detail hinted at a future in fashion. Although life took her down other

7 Best Practices to Make High-Quality Garments
7 Best Practices to Make High-Quality Garments For Fashion Designers and Product Developers Creating durable, high-quality garments involves more than just aesthetic considerations. It’s also about building a brand reputation and customer loyalty, as well as minimising returns and production

Sewing Practice Templates for Teachers and Factories
Sewing Practice Templates Training Activities for Teachers and Factories These sewing practice templates are designed to help beginner sewers develop essential sewing machine skills. Start by practising by sewing on paper (instead of a piece of fabric), and ensure there

Technical Resources for Fashion Educators
Essential Technical Skills for Fashion Teachers -plus Free Resources Empowering the Next Generation of Designers Building a Strong Technical Foundation Creativity is undoubtedly the cornerstone of fashion design. However, translating those ideas into successful garments is essential, and that requires

Experts Advice on Sustainability
Experts Advice on Sustainability Interview with David Alonso The fashion industry is facing a reckoning. Consumers are demanding more sustainable practices, and regulations are tightening. Today, we’re sitting down with David Alonso, a sustainability expert with extensive experience in the textile

The Importance of Digital Tech Packs in Streamlining Product Development
Digital Tech Packs Their Importance for Streamlining Product Development In today’s fast-paced fashion industry, efficiency and accuracy are crucial to staying competitive. Traditional tech packs, while necessary, frequently hold down the product development process owing to manual errors, miscommunications,

How I Made This Assembly Sheet
How I Made This Assembly Sheet… in record time! [ How-I-Made-This Series ] Is making professional assembly sheets a daunting task that takes you forever? Then, you might not be following this 3-step process that simplifies your work and saves

Callouts & Tech Packs: Definition, types and implementation – UPDATED
Callouts & Tech Packs: Definition, types and implementation Using Callouts for Effective Communication Definition According to the Oxford Language Dictionary, a callout (n) is “a statement drawing critical attention to someone’s unacceptable actions or behaviour.” However, in the apparel industry, the term

What is the Most Durable Stitch? (+ Stitch Types)
What is the Most Durable Stitch? (+ Stitch Types) Choosing the Perfect Stitch for Durability Selecting seams to create a new style involves choosing the right stitch type, which directly affects the garment’s durability. There is no single option for

Crotch Seam Blowouts
Crotch Seam Bursts & Blowouts Causes and ideas to improve the construction. Last month, we received an interesting question we wanted to share with you.Samantha is a fashion designer from the UK, and this is her question: “What can be

Durable Clothing and Durability Types
Durable Clothing and Durability Types Physical and Emotional Durability Attributes This article complements the info on page 27 of our book Strong Seams, where we define the meaning of durability in the apparel industry and discuss the types of durability.

Fabrics and Durability
Fabrics and Durability Criteria for Selecting Long-lasting Materials Durable fabrics have specific characteristics, such as high tensile strength and pilling resistance, that boost longevity by withstanding wear and tear. Considering those characteristics helps select fabrics that meet the specific durability

Garment Durability: 3 Tests to Check Trimmings
The 3 Most Common Tests to Check Trimmings [ Garment Durability ] 1. Pull Test The pull test is an essential quality assurance method used to assess the durability and safety of different garment accessories. This test evaluates the strength

Shrinkage and Strong Seams
Shrinkage and Strong Seams Fabric shrinkage can significantly impact the durability and strength of seams. To minimize adverse effects, we must consider the shrinkage of the fabric and the sewing thread, employ appropriate stitching techniques, and, in some cases, implement

Restricted Substances List (RSL) in Fashion: A Guide to Safety and Sustainability
Restricted Substances List (RSL) in Fashion A Guide to Safety and Sustainability Understand the importance of the RSL, learn about common restricted substances, and discover how to ensure your products comply. What is the “Restricted Substances List (RSL)” in fashion?

Fabric Shrinkage
Fabric Shrinkage In the apparel industry, “shrinkage” refers to the reduction in size or dimensions of a material, such as fabric and sewing thread, after being subjected to washing, drying, or other textile processing methods. The consequence of shrinkage can affect

Laboratory Tests and Methods for Seams
Laboratory Tests And Methods For Seams Visual inspections are important, but laboratory tests provide a more complete seam strength and performance analysis. These tests evaluate tearing, bursting, and tensile strength, which includes tension, breaking strength, elongation, and recovery. They also

11 Tech Pack Mistakes That Caused Apparel Recalls | Real-World Lessons
Real-World Lessons: How Poor Tech Packs Can Destroy Apparel Brands Here are eleven real-world examples where a deficient, incomplete, or poorly managed tech pack led to product failure, recall, or reputational damage in the apparel industry. After each case, I

Seam Allowance: The 11 Most Common Questions Answered by Garment Industry Experts
Seam Allowance: The 11 Most Common Questions Answered by Garment Industry Experts Everything fashion designers, patternmakers, and technical developers need to know about seam allowance… compiled into 11 essential Q&As. In fashion design and professional garment production, the concept of

Garment Defects and Quality Control
Garment Defects And Quality Control Garment defects are an endless concern for the apparel industry, frustrating all stakeholders, including fashion designers, product developers, manufacturers, and consumers. These defects can lead to problems such as material waste, production delays, and unhappy

Types of Tests in Apparel Quality Control
Types of Tests in Apparel Quality Control Beyond the sharp eyes of inspectors, apparel quality control relies heavily on a complete testing program. These tests act as scientific evaluations to ensure garments meet specific performance standards, safety regulations, and consumer

Book Review: Sewing Seams for Tech Pack
Book Review: Sewing Seams for Tech Pack You are a fashion designer and need help managing the technical development of your garments. You often receive prototypes that are different from what you expected. On the one hand, the measurements need

Understanding Stress Areas in Garment Construction
Understanding Stress Areas in Garment Construction A Guide for Designers and Product Developers to Improve Durability All garments are prone to stress. These stress areas include tearing, ripping, snagging, and pulling, which are especially common in activewear, work clothing, and

Pattern Templates for Effective Fitting Rectifications (Product Review)
Pattern Templates for Fitting Comments The fashion industry works against the clock; that is a fact. No matter how big or small the brand you work for. Every day you have a lot to do, and everything is urgent… Do

Guide to Specifying Seams on Tech Packs
Garment Assembly The 3 ways to specify seams Let’s suppose we designed a parka, and we want a shoulder with a strong seam that has a clean finish on the inside and a topstitch. How would you explain that? First

List of Tests and Methods to Check Sewing Seams: Standards ISO, ASTM, and Related
List Of Tests And Methods To Check Seams Standards ISO, ASTM, And Related ISO ISO 13935-1 – Textiles – Seam tensile properties of fabrics and made-up textile articles – Part 1: Determination of maximum force to seam rupture using the

How to Sell on a Pre-Order Basis
How to Sell on a Pre-Order Basis Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 When you launch yourself as a fashion producer, developing a collection and nailing every design detail is only part of the job. Today’s topic leans more toward entrepreneurship:

The Power of Clear Garment Assembly Specifications
The Power of Clear Garment Assembly Specifications Benefits of explaining your garments construction. 1. Receive better quality prototypes When you are precise on how you want the garment, you get prototypes with the quality you expect. It’s that simple!The manufacturer

From Inspiration Mood to Teamwork
From Inspiration Mood to Teamwork How Inspiration Fuels Teamwork in Fashion Design Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 When the entire team is infused with the mood of inspiration, magical things happen, and the whole atmosphere is permeated with the same

Book 101 Sewing Seams: Update / 2nd Edition
Book 101 Sewing Seams Update / 2nd EDITION Our first book 101 Seams has just been updated and in this article we will tell you about the adjustments we have made. Layout The main changes are related to the aesthetic

Being an Integral Fashion Designer
Being a Truly Integral Fashion Designer Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 It took me a long time to find a single word for the concept I always wanted to convey—I kept piling on adjectives—until “integral” finally came to mind. Whenever

International Standards for Sewing Seams: ISO, ASTM, and ABC Seams
International Standards for Sewing Seams ISO, ASTM, and ABC Seams. What is a Standard? A standard is a norm for specifications, procedures, and guidelines that can be adopted either in a region, a nation, or the whole world. The ultimate

Why Designers Should Learn How to Sew
Why Fashion Designers Should Learn to Sew Why should I learn to sew even if I already have a team that will do it for me? Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 That is a question several fashion design students have

How Many Prototypes per Garment? A Guide to Sample Development by Product Type
How Many Prototypes Should You Request Per Garment? Technical Guide by Product Type [ Translate this article into any language here ] Last update: 20 Feb 2025 Wondering how many samples you actually need to develop a garment? If you’re

The Future of Fashion – CLO 3D
The Future of Fashion – CLO 3D As a professional in the apparel industry, I have spent much of my life in a business where processes are often slow, manual, repetitive, and sometimes tedious. And we get used to that,

Why Patternmaking?
Why Patternmaking? A Key for Creative Freedom in Fashion Design. Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 When you don’t know what you don’t know. Perhaps, like me, you’ve experienced wanting to make a design that only exists in your imagination and

What does a tech pack consist of?
What does a tech pack consist of? Inormation included in a Tech Pack There isn’t any international standard to do Tech Packs, but there is a general agreement on what type of information you need to include on it.This information

Woven Fabrics and Knit Fabrics: Properties and Qualities
Woven Fabrics and Knit Fabrics Properties and Qualities Years ago, when I started studying fashion design, I knew very little about this new world that was opening in front of my eyes. The truth is that it is so vast

Types of Seams and their Uses
Types of Seams and Their Uses The location of each seam is an essential factor in determining the correct choice. Seams selection varies depending on: the type of product: clothing, accessory, household items, upholstery, etc. the place in the product: