TECH NOTES

White woven care label caught in the overlocked seam of a pale grey cotton garment, lifted by hand

Care Label Placement

Care Labels Placement, Attachment and What to Check on a Sample A sample arrives. You check the fit, the seams, the topstitching, the trims. The care label is a strip of tape inside a side seam, and it takes about

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Close-up of an industrial sewing machine head and threading path with an operator working behind it

Types of Sewing Machines

Types of Sewing Machines What Designers and Product Developers Actually Need to Know You will probably never press the pedal. But every seam you design is, whether you know it or not, an instruction to a machine. And if no

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Topstitching along the side and knee seams of blue denim jeans

Topstitching: Types, Purposes and Uses

Topstitching: Types, Purposes and Uses A Practical Guide to Naming, Choosing and Specifying Topstitches Last update: June 2026 “Topstitch, edgestitch, understitch, stitch-in-the-ditch: four words designers use loosely, and four different operations a factory will sew exactly as labelled. Mixing them

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Dress tech pack page with ASCS seam codes including H150-32, T200-7, H110-2 and H311-9 linked to garment callouts.

Why Quality Breaks When Your Team Grows

Why Quality Breaks When Your Team Grows… And How Standardization Fixes It How big brands reduce rectifications and protect consistency at scale… without adding more meetings. Same style. Three vendors. Three prototypes. Three different constructions. The schedule isn’t failing because

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Skipped stitches on a seam joining synthetic leather to fleece, causing visible gap and structural weakness.

Sewing Defects: Diagnose, Prevent, and QC Like a Pro

Sewing Defects The Complete Guide for Product Developers, Technical Designers, and QC Teams [ TECHNICAL VOCABULARY SERIES ] Last Update: October 4, 2025 Translate Page Sewing defects aren’t just stitching issues. They’re brand risks. From the first sample to full

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Seam reference sheet with diagrams and GSD/SMV times for skirt construction: elastic waistband, slit, and hem.

How Much Does Your Garment Really Cost?

How Much Does Your Garment Really Cost? GSD, SMV & ASCS Explained for Product Developers Last update: September 6, 2025 Translate Page How many minutes does it really take to make the garment you’re developing?If the answer is accurate, it

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Checklist for Your First Meeting with Suppliers

Checklist for Your First Meeting with Suppliers A Practical Guide for Fashion Brands. Translate Page The first meeting with a supplier can feel a bit intimidating, especially when you’re aiming to ensure quality, production timelines, and reasonable costs. But arriving

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Why We Created the ABC Seam Code System (ASCS)

Born from Frustration: Why We Created the ABC Seam Code System (ASCS) How a product developer’s daily struggles led to the creation of a clear, easy-to-use seam coding system. Translate Page You open the sample. You turn the garment inside

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Detailed leggings assembly sheet: front and back flats with red arrows linking to BOM boxes for trims, gusset close-up, elastic band and thread info—illustrating a complete, well-annotated tech pack.

Garment Assembly Sheets​

Garment Assembly Sheets [ Tech Pack Series ] Last Update: June 14, 2025 Translate Page A tech pack links a designer’s creative vision with the actual production of the garment. When done properly, it accelerates timelines, reduces sampling costs, and

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Fancy Seams - Sport shorts bottom - Seam detail

3 Fancy Seams for Shorts Bottoms

Shorts That Sell Luxury: 3 Finishes to Upgrade Your Design [ Fancy Seams Series ] How to turn a simple short into a high-end garment [ Translate this article into any language here ] How do you turn a basic

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Seam Allowance & Seam Types

Seam Allowance Explained

Seam Allowance Explained Precision Standards for Apparel-Industry Professionals [ Translate this article into any language here ] In technical design, every millimetre matters. Seam allowance is one of those invisible elements that defines whether a garment is made right… or

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stitch type activewear

Stitch Classification Guide: ISO 4915 vs ASCS

Complete Guide to Stitch Types Classification ISO 4915 and the ASCS System Clear communication ensures product quality and consistency. To referring stitches in particular, you can use two international standard systems: the ISO 4915 standard and the ABC Seams Code

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Prototyping Mistakes COVER

Prototype Mistakes in Fashion Design

Prototyping Mistakes Why doesn’t your prototype look like what you designed? Learn about the most frequent mistakes in garment prototyping and how to fix them—before it’s too late! Garment prototyping is a critical phase in fashion collection development, as it

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Flat Sketches

Flat Sketches: From Sketch to Final Product Their Importance in the Fashion Industry. By Soidée Romero In fashion, throughout the design cycle, different types of drawings can be used, them we can mention: the quick hand sketches made by hand

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Garment Returns - Defects: Slipped-stitches-at-inner-hem

Garment Returns: Causes and How to Avoid Them

Garment Returns Why Do Customers Return Your Clothes?… Here’s How to Fix It. Imagine this: A customer eagerly unpacks their newly purchased jacket, only to find a missing button and uneven stitching along the seams. Disappointed, they initiate a return.

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Seam Classification -Updated!

Seam Classification A Guide to Mastering Seam Types & Selection. Last update: February 20, 2025 Did you know that most fashion designers use only 23% of the available seam types? Even more surprising, many are unaware of over 40% of

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Laura perfil

Sewing and Passion for Sustainability

Sewing and Passion Laura’s Journey to Sustainable Fashion What happens when passion meets determination? Laura is living proof. From a young age, her drawings and attention to detail hinted at a future in fashion. Although life took her down other

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Post Best Practices - 1 shopping

7 Best Practices to Make High-Quality Garments

7 Best Practices to Make High-Quality Garments For Fashion Designers and Product Developers Creating durable, high-quality garments involves more than just aesthetic considerations. It’s also about building a brand reputation and customer loyalty, as well as minimising returns and production

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Sewing Practice Templates COVER

Sewing Practice Templates for Teachers and Factories

Sewing Practice Templates Training Activities for Teachers and Factories These sewing practice templates are designed to help beginner sewers develop essential sewing machine skills. Start by practising by sewing on paper (instead of a piece of fabric), and ensure there

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Tech Resources C101-10 pants drawing pantone

Technical Resources for Fashion Educators

Essential Technical Skills for Fashion Teachers -plus Free Resources Empowering the Next Generation of Designers Building a Strong Technical Foundation Creativity is undoubtedly the cornerstone of fashion design. However, translating those ideas into successful garments is essential, and that requires

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Interview Sustainability David Alonso

Experts Advice on Sustainability

Experts Advice on Sustainability Interview with David Alonso The fashion industry is facing a reckoning. Consumers are demanding more sustainable practices, and regulations are tightening. Today, we’re sitting down with David Alonso, a sustainability expert with extensive experience in the textile

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How I Made This Assembly Sheet COVER

How I Made This Assembly Sheet

How I Made This Assembly Sheet… in record time! [ How-I-Made-This Series ] Is making professional assembly sheets a daunting task that takes you forever? Then, you might not be following this 3-step process that simplifies your work and saves

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Stitch Types and Durability PB303

What is the Most Durable Stitch? (+ Stitch Types)

What is the Most Durable Stitch? (+ Stitch Types) Choosing the Perfect Stitch for Durability Selecting seams to create a new style involves choosing the right stitch type, which directly affects the garment’s durability. There is no single option for

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Crotch Seam Blowouts

Crotch Seam Bursts & Blowouts Causes and ideas to improve the construction. Last month, we received an interesting question we wanted to share with you.Samantha is a fashion designer from the UK, and this is her question: “What can be

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pattern templates for fitting rectifications

Durable Clothing and Durability Types

Durable Clothing and Durability Types Physical and Emotional Durability Attributes This article complements the info on page 27 of our book Strong Seams, where we define the meaning of durability in the apparel industry and discuss the types of durability.

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Fabrics and durability

Fabrics and Durability

Fabrics and Durability Criteria for Selecting Long-lasting Materials Durable fabrics have specific characteristics, such as high tensile strength and pilling resistance, that boost longevity by withstanding wear and tear. Considering those characteristics helps select fabrics that meet the specific durability

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Laboratory Tests and Methods for Seams

Garment Durability: 3 Tests to Check Trimmings

The 3 Most Common Tests to Check Trimmings [ Garment Durability ] 1. Pull Test The pull test is an essential quality assurance method used to assess the durability and safety of different garment accessories. This test evaluates the strength

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Shrinkage and Strong Seams

Shrinkage and Strong Seams

Shrinkage and Strong Seams Fabric shrinkage can significantly impact the durability and strength of seams. To minimize adverse effects, we must consider the shrinkage of the fabric and the sewing thread, employ appropriate stitching techniques, and, in some cases, implement

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Fabric Shrinkage

Fabric Shrinkage

Fabric Shrinkage In the apparel industry, “shrinkage” refers to the reduction in size or dimensions of a material, such as fabric and sewing thread, after being subjected to washing, drying, or other textile processing methods. The consequence of shrinkage can affect

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Laboratory Tests And Methods For Seams

Laboratory Tests and Methods for Seams

Laboratory Tests And Methods For Seams Visual inspections are important, but laboratory tests provide a more complete seam strength and performance analysis. These tests evaluate tearing, bursting, and tensile strength, which includes tension, breaking strength, elongation, and recovery. They also

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Garment Defects and Quality Control

Garment Defects And Quality Control Garment defects are an endless concern for the apparel industry, frustrating all stakeholders, including fashion designers, product developers, manufacturers, and consumers. These defects can lead to problems such as material waste, production delays, and unhappy

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Apparel Quality Control

Types of Tests in Apparel Quality Control

Types of Tests in Apparel Quality Control Beyond the sharp eyes of inspectors, apparel quality control relies heavily on a complete testing program. These tests act as scientific evaluations to ensure garments meet specific performance standards, safety regulations, and consumer

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Book Sewing Seams for Tech Packs

Book Review: Sewing Seams for Tech Pack

Book Review: Sewing Seams for Tech Pack You are a fashion designer and need help managing the technical development of your garments. You often receive prototypes that are different from what you expected. On the one hand, the measurements need

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Understanding Stress Areas in Garment Construction COVER

Understanding Stress Areas in Garment Construction

Understanding Stress Areas in Garment Construction A Guide for Designers and Product Developers to Improve Durability All garments are prone to stress. These stress areas include tearing, ripping, snagging, and pulling, which are especially common in activewear, work clothing, and

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Guide to Specifying Seams on Tech Packs

Guide to Specifying Seams on Tech Packs

Garment Assembly The 3 ways to specify seams Let’s suppose we designed a parka, and we want a shoulder with a strong seam that has a clean finish on the inside and a topstitch. How would you explain that? First

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fashion designer selling online pre-order laptop

How to Sell on a Pre-Order Basis

How to Sell on a Pre-Order Basis Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 When you launch yourself as a fashion producer, developing a collection and nailing every design detail is only part of the job. Today’s topic leans more toward entrepreneurship:

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The Power of Clear Garment Assembly Specifications

The Power of Clear Garment Assembly Specifications Benefits of explaining your garments construction. 1. Receive better quality prototypes When you are precise on how you want the garment, you get prototypes with the quality you expect. It’s that simple!The manufacturer

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student fashion designer magazine studio inspiration

From Inspiration Mood to Teamwork

From Inspiration Mood to Teamwork How Inspiration Fuels Teamwork in Fashion Design Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 When the entire team is infused with the mood of inspiration, magical things happen, and the whole atmosphere is permeated with the same

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patternmaker students working

Being an Integral Fashion Designer

Being a Truly Integral Fashion Designer Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 It took me a long time to find a single word for the concept I always wanted to convey—I kept piling on adjectives—until “integral” finally came to mind. Whenever

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sewing tools and tech notes

Why Designers Should Learn How to Sew

Why Fashion Designers Should Learn to Sew Why should I learn to sew even if I already have a team that will do it for me? Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 That is a question several fashion design students have

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The Future of Fashion – CLO 3D

The Future of Fashion – CLO 3D As a professional in the apparel industry, I have spent much of my life in a business where processes are often slow, manual, repetitive, and sometimes tedious. And we get used to that,

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student computer patternmaking

Why Patternmaking?

Why Patternmaking? A Key for Creative Freedom in Fashion Design. Translate Page Last update: 21/06/2025 When you don’t know what you don’t know. Perhaps, like me, you’ve experienced wanting to make a design that only exists in your imagination and

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What does a tech pack consist of?

What does a tech pack consist of? Inormation included in a Tech Pack There isn’t any international standard to do Tech Packs, but there is a general agreement on what type of information you need to include on it.This information

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Types of Seams

Types of Seams and their Uses

Types of Seams and Their Uses The location of each seam is an essential factor in determining the correct choice. Seams selection varies depending on: the type of product: clothing, accessory, household items, upholstery, etc. the place in the product:

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