Types of Seams and their Uses

The location of each seam is an essential factor in determining the correct choice.

Seams selection varies depending on:

  • the type of product: clothing, accessory, household items, upholstery, etc.
  • the place in the product: opening, neckline, neck, shoulders, hems, flap (wallet), cuffs, etc.
  • the style of the product: casual, sporty, high quality, low-cost, etc.
  • the types of fabric: woven, knit, denim, sheers, heavyweight fabrics, lightweight fabrics, etc.
  • the type of the cut: curved, straight, on the bias, on the grain, etc.

 So, based on these 5 aspects, let’s see the most frequent uses of the following seams.


C100 | Felled Seam

  • It is appropriated for just about any location on the garment such as shoulders and side seams.
  • Lined garments and no-exposed seams.
  • Accessories: bags, footwear, home decor.

C101 | Bound Seam

  • High-quality garments.
  • Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos.
  • Unlined jackets, coats and outerwear in general.
  • Reversible garments.

C010 | French Seam

  • Commonly used on woven fabrics such as sheer, lace, and most lightweight fabrics.
  • Side seams and sleeve seams of blouses and shirts.
  • High-end garments.

C110 | Welt Seam

  • Widely used on clothing made of denim fabric such as jeans, shirts, skirts, and jackets.
  • Shirts: shoulder and yoke seams.
  • Trousers: crotch and side seams.

C120 | Lapped Seam

  • These seams work well on fabrics that do not flare such as leather, suede, vinyl, and lace.
  • Irregular shaped edges and curved seams.
  • Bags and accessories.

C200 | Open Seam

  • They work better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
  • Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
  • Accessories, for instance, bags and shoes.

CD190 | Sandwich Seam

  • Yoke and shoulder seams of shirts and blouses.
  • Yoke of skirts and trousers/pants.
  • Neckline seam with collar.
  • Cuffs.


H110 | Fold Hem

  • Suitable on hems of most types of clothing, especially those made of woven fabrics.
  • Narrow plackets and slits.
  • Pockets opening.

H101 | Bound Hem

  • High-quality garments.
  • Ideal for curved hems.
  • Necklines.
  • Hems of reversible garments.

H150 | Faced Hem

  • Armholes and necklines of sleeveless tops and dresses.
  • Plackets of shirts, blouses, and jackets.
  • Bottoms of tops, dresses, and skirts.
  • Hems cut on the bias.

H200 | Binded Edge

  • Necklines and cuffs (or armholes on sleeveless tops).
  • Narrow plackets.
  • It works great on curved and bias-cut edges.
  • Bags, accessories, footwear, and home decor.

H210 | Exposed Band

  • Necklines of t-shirts, tops, and dresses.
  • Ribbed necklines.
  • Armhole edges of sleeveless tops and dresses.
  • Gathered hems with elastic band.

H000 | Unhemmed Edge

  • Casual clothing.
  • Bottom of full skirts made in light-weight fabrics.
  • Fur industry.
  • Bags and accessories.

HD190 | Sandwich Hem

  • Hems of lined garments.
  • Collars, lapel edges, and hoods.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Bags and accessories.


D110 | Pleat

  • Commonly used on women’s clothing: waist, hip, and bust area.
  • Cuff seam of shirts and blouses.
  • Accessories such as hats and bags.

D111 | Box Pleat

  • Shirts: back side, just below the yoke.
  • Patch pockets.
  • Skirts and trousers/pants.
  • Bags and accessories.

D210 | Patch

  • Patch pockets: jeans, trousers, shirts, etc.
  • Elbow patches.
  • Bags and accessories.
  • Applique.

ABC Seams

The new standards for inspiring, communicating and referring sewing seams.