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Types of Seams and their Uses

Location, location, location… “the location of your property is an essential factor in determining its value.”
This famous real estate mantra clearly reflects today’s subject:

The location of each seam is an essential factor in determining the correct choice.

In previous articles, we discussed how seams are classified and their main properties. In this third part of the series Types of Seams, we will see which are the most frequent uses for those seams.

The uses might vary depending on:

  • the type of product: clothing, accessory, household items, upholstery, etc.
  • the place in the product: opening, neckline, neck, shoulders, hems, flap (wallet), cuffs, etc.
  • the style of the product: casual, sporty, high quality, low-cost, etc.
  • the types of fabric: woven, knit, denim, sheers, heavyweight fabrics, lightweight fabrics, etc.
  • the type of the cut: curved, straight, on the bias, on the grain, etc.

 So, based on these 5 aspects, let’s see the most frequent uses of the following seams.


C100 | Felled Seam

  • It is appropriated for just about any location on the garment such as shoulders and side seams.
  • Lined garments and no-exposed seams.
  • Accessories: bags, footwear, home decor.

C101 | Bound Seam

  • High-quality garments.
  • Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos.
  • Unlined jackets, coats and outerwear in general.
  • Reversible garments.

C010 | French Seam

  • Commonly used on woven fabrics such as sheer, lace, and most lightweight fabrics.
  • Side seams and sleeve seams of blouses and shirts.
  • High-end garments.

C110 | Welt Seam

  • Widely used on clothing made of denim fabric such as jeans, shirts, skirts, and jackets.
  • Shirts: shoulder and yoke seams.
  • Trousers: crotch and side seams.

C120 | Lapped Seam

  • These seams work well on fabrics that do not flare such as leather, suede, vinyl, and lace.
  • Irregular shaped edges and curved seams.
  • Bags and accessories.

C200 | Open Seam

  • They work better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
  • Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
  • Accessories, for instance, bags and shoes.

CD190 | Sandwich Seam

  • Yoke and shoulder seams of shirts and blouses.
  • Yoke of skirts and trousers/pants.
  • Neckline seam with collar.
  • Cuffs.


H110 | Fold Hem

  • Suitable on hems of most types of clothing, especially those made of woven fabrics.
  • Narrow plackets and slits.
  • Pockets opening.

H101 | Bound Hem

  • High-quality garments.
  • Ideal for curved hems.
  • Necklines.
  • Hems of reversible garments.

H150 | Faced Hem

  • Armholes and necklines of sleeveless tops and dresses.
  • Plackets of shirts, blouses, and jackets.
  • Bottoms of tops, dresses, and skirts.
  • Hems cut on the bias.

H200 | Binded Edge

  • Necklines and cuffs (or armholes on sleeveless tops).
  • Narrow plackets.
  • It works great on curved and bias-cut edges.
  • Bags, accessories, footwear, and home decor.

H210 | Exposed Band

  • Necklines of t-shirts, tops, and dresses.
  • Ribbed necklines.
  • Armhole edges of sleeveless tops and dresses.
  • Gathered hems with elastic band.

H000 | Unhemmed Edge

  • Casual clothing.
  • Bottom of full skirts made in light-weight fabrics.
  • Fur industry.
  • Bags and accessories.

HD190 | Sandwich Hem

  • Hems of lined garments.
  • Collars, lapel edges, and hoods.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Bags and accessories.


D110 | Pleat

  • Commonly used on women’s clothing: waist, hip, and bust area.
  • Cuff seam of shirts and blouses.
  • Accessories such as hats and bags.

D111 | Box Pleat

  • Shirts: back side, just below the yoke.
  • Patch pockets.
  • Skirts and trousers/pants.
  • Bags and accessories.

D210 | Patch

  • Patch pockets: jeans, trousers, shirts, etc.
  • Elbow patches.
  • Bags and accessories.
  • Applique.

Today we have discussed the frequent use of these 17 groups of seams.
With this information, you can decide with absolute confidence which seams best suit your designs.

Was this article useful? Leave us your comment below and tell us what else you would like to learn.


Belu Chi

Belu Chi

Technical Designer at ABC Seams®
Expert in apparel development and technical communication. Former Product Developer at Burberry.

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Belu Chi

Technical Designer at ABC Seams®

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