Types of Seams and Their Uses
The location of each seam is an essential factor in determining the correct choice.
Seams selection varies depending on:
- the type of product: clothing, accessory, household items, upholstery, etc.
- the place in the product: opening, neckline, neck, shoulders, hems, flap (wallet), cuffs, etc.
- the style of the product: casual, sporty, high quality, low-cost, etc.
- the types of fabric: woven, knit, denim, sheers, heavyweight fabrics, lightweight fabrics, etc.
- the type of the cut: curved, straight, on the bias, on the grain, etc.
So, based on these 5 aspects, let’s see the most frequent uses of the following seams.
Constructions
C100 | Felled Seam
- It is appropriated for just about any location on the garment such as shoulders and side seams.
- Lined garments and no-exposed seams.
- Accessories: bags, footwear, home decor.
C101 | Bound Seam
- High-quality garments.
- Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos.
- Unlined jackets, coats and outerwear in general.
- Reversible garments.
C010 | French Seam
- Commonly used on woven fabrics such as sheer, lace, and most lightweight fabrics.
- Side seams and sleeve seams of blouses and shirts.
- High-end garments.
C110 | Welt Seam
- Widely used on clothing made of denim fabric such as jeans, shirts, skirts, and jackets.
- Shirts: shoulder and yoke seams.
- Trousers: crotch and side seams.
C120 | Lapped Seam
- These seams work well on fabrics that do not flare such as leather, suede, vinyl, and lace.
- Irregular shaped edges and curved seams.
- Bags and accessories.
C200 | Open Seam
- They work better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
- Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
- Accessories, for instance, bags and shoes.
CD190 | Sandwich Seam
- Yoke and shoulder seams of shirts and blouses.
- Yoke of skirts and trousers/pants.
- Neckline seam with collar.
- Cuffs.
Finishes
H110 | Fold Hem
- Suitable on hems of most types of clothing, especially those made of woven fabrics.
- Narrow plackets and slits.
- Pockets opening.
H101 | Bound Hem
- High-quality garments.
- Ideal for curved hems.
- Necklines.
- Hems of reversible garments.
H150 | Faced Hem
- Armholes and necklines of sleeveless tops and dresses.
- Plackets of shirts, blouses, and jackets.
- Bottoms of tops, dresses, and skirts.
- Hems cut on the bias.
H200 | Binded Edge
- Necklines and cuffs (or armholes on sleeveless tops).
- Narrow plackets.
- It works great on curved and bias-cut edges.
- Bags, accessories, footwear, and home decor.
H210 | Exposed Band
- Necklines of t-shirts, tops, and dresses.
- Ribbed necklines.
- Armhole edges of sleeveless tops and dresses.
- Gathered hems with elastic band.
H000 | Unhemmed Edge
- Casual clothing.
- Bottom of full skirts made in light-weight fabrics.
- Fur industry.
- Bags and accessories.
HD190 | Sandwich Hem
- Hems of lined garments.
- Collars, lapel edges, and hoods.
- Reversible garments.
- Bags and accessories.
Details
D110 | Pleat
- Commonly used on women’s clothing: waist, hip, and bust area.
- Cuff seam of shirts and blouses.
- Accessories such as hats and bags.
D111 | Box Pleat
- Shirts: back side, just below the yoke.
- Patch pockets.
- Skirts and trousers/pants.
- Bags and accessories.
D210 | Patch
- Patch pockets: jeans, trousers, shirts, etc.
- Elbow patches.
- Bags and accessories.
- Applique.