Understanding Stress Areas in Garment Construction

A Guide for Designers and Product Developers to Improve Durability

All garments are prone to stress. These stress areas include tearing, ripping, snagging, and pulling, which are especially common in activewear, work clothing, and children’s clothing, for example.
This stress, subject to significant pulling, tension, and movement, can lead to seam failures like tearing, ripping, or snagging, ultimately impacting garment longevity and customer satisfaction.

In this article, we’re going to talk about the factors that affect the stress in garments, the different levels of garment stress, and the techniques we can use to reduce the stress impact and create durable, high-quality garments.

Factors Influencing Stress Levels

Factors that impact the stress level of garments include:

Fabric Type:
The inherent properties of the fabric, such as its strength, elasticity, and weight, significantly influence its ability to withstand stress. For example, a tightly woven cotton will have greater resistance to tearing than a loosely knit jersey. More info on fabric types and durability here.
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Garment Intended Use:
The purpose of the garment directly affects the level of stress it will encounter. Activewear, workwear, and children’s clothing typically experience higher stress levels due to increased movement and wear and tear.
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Garment Fit:
Tight-fitting garments generate more stress on seams due to the constant tension on the fabric. Conversely, loose-fitting garments experience less stress but may be more prone to sagging or wrinkling.
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Seam Location:
Certain areas of a garment, such as the crotch, knees, elbows, and shoulders, are naturally more susceptible to stress due to their proximity to joints and the body’s natural movement.

Stress Level Classification

To effectively address stress areas, each part of the garment must be categorized into three stress levels:

1. High Stress:
These areas experience the most significant strain, requiring robust construction techniques and durable materials.

Common problems: seams splitting, gaping, popping open, and detaching appliques like patch pockets.

Examples: shoulders, shoulder straps, tight necklines, elbows, crotch seams, some knees, pocket openings, and fly closures.
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2. Medium Stress:
These areas experience moderate tension and movement. While strong construction is essential, it should allow for a degree of flexibility.

Common problems: splitting and gaping seams.

Examples: side seams, open necklines, some waistbands, and sleeves.
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3. Low Stress:
These areas experience minimal stress and primarily require attention to aesthetics and preventing fraying.

Common problems: weak seams, frying, and unravelling.

Examples: most hems, decorative seams, and open sleeve cuffs.

Note: Please remember these categories provide a general guideline. It’s always best to analyze the specific garment fit, fabric type, and intended use location to specify the appropriate stress level for each seam.

Reinforcement Techniques to Increase Durability

Enhanced Seams:
- Use double or triple topstitching for added strength and visual appeal.
- Use flatlock stitching as a durable and decorative topstitch, particularly for knit fabrics.
- Consider a slightly shorter stitch length for improved seam security and strength.
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Seam Finishes:
Include reinforced finishes such as bounded seams or serged edges to prevent fraying and improve garment longevity.
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Structural Support:
Use stay tapes (or clear tape) to reinforce seams prone to stress, like shoulders, providing added strength, stability, and structure.
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Strategic Reinforcement:
Use bar tacks (or rivets) at high-stress points, such as pocket corners and fly closures, to prevent tearing and extend the garment’s lifespan.

Updated Note (26-10-23):
Find more information on “Reinforcements and Sewing Techniques” and “Stressed Areas” from pages 152 to 161 of the book Strong Seams.

Summary

Understand the key factors that influence stress in garments: These include fabric type, intended use, garment fit, and seam location.
Classify stress areas into three levels: High, medium, and low stress, each requiring appropriate construction techniques.
Employ effective reinforcement techniques: Utilize methods such as double topstitching, flatlock stitching, stay tapes, and bar tacks to enhance seam strength.
Consider the intended use and target market: Tailor construction choices to the specific needs and expectations of the end-user.
Prioritize durability and customer satisfaction: By addressing stress areas effectively, designers can create garments that withstand wear and tear, ensuring long-term customer satisfaction and building brand loyalty.

This information is a part of the research conducted for our third book, Strong Seams, a seam catalogue focused on garment durability and quality.

We couldn’t include all the research in the book. However, we believe it’s worth sharing with people like you who are also interested in quality and long-lasting garments.

We hope the material is helpful. If you want to know more about our book Strong Seams, please visit the following link: book Strong Seams (link)

Consulted and Related Sources

ASTM International. (2021). ASTM-D5034: Standard Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test).
Bubonia, J. E. (2014). Apparel Quality: A Guide to Evaluating Sewn Products. Fairchild. ISBN 978-1609015123.
Ghiuzan, L. (2024). Manufacturing Excellence and Quality Management in Sustainable Fashion Apparel. VersaCharm Books. ISBN 978-0975645605.
Cooper, T., Hill, H., Kininmonth, J., Townsend, K., & Hughes, M. (2016). Wrap. Design for longevity: Guidance on increasing the active life of clothing. Retrieved from https://wrap.org.uk/resources/report/design-extending-clothing-life#download-file
Ruby Moon. (n.d.). Durability in Fashion: Why Longevity Should Take Priority. Retrieved from https://rubymoon.org.uk/blog/2020/07/13/durability-in-fashion-why-longevity-should-take-priority/
ABC Seams® Pty. Ltd.(2020). Type of Seams and Their Uses. Retrieved from https://abcseams.com/seams-common-uses/