What is the Most Durable Stitch? (+ Stitch Types)
Choosing the Perfect Stitch for Durability
Selecting seams to create a new style involves choosing the right stitch type, which directly affects the garment’s durability. There is no single option for the “most durable” stitch, as the choice depends on several factors discussed below. Yet, understanding stitch strength factors will help you make the right decision.
3 Key Considerations for Selecting Durable Stitching:
- Fabric Type: The structure of the fabric plays an essential role. Woven fabrics, known for their stability, often benefit from straight stitches like the lockstitch. On the other hand, knit fabrics require stretchable stitches like the overlock or cover stitch to adapt to the fabric movement.
- Seam Location and Stress Level: High-stress areas, like waistbands, crotches, and underarms, demand strong yet elastic stitches. The chain stitch, for instance, offers both strength and flexibility. (Refer to pages 159 and 160 of the book Strong Seams for more about stress levels.)
- Seam structure: Thicker seams need more robust stitches (and higher tension thread). For example, if you are selecting the seam for the bottom edge of a skirt’s lining made of knit fabric (170 grams), in that case, an overlock 3T (3 threads) is more convenient because it’s more flexible and thinner than an overlock 4T (4 threads). However, for the side seam of a t-shirt made of knit fabric (250 grams), you will need an overlock 4T. The fabric is thicker, and the stitch joins two layers of fabric instead of one layer, as in the skirt’s lining example.
Additional Considerations:
- Thread Choice: Opt for strong threads like polyester or nylon to reinforce your seams. If choosing cotton, consider a blend with polyester.
- Stitch Length: Shorter stitches generally create more durable seams. (See page 151 of “Strong Seams” for a stitch length chart.)
- Sewing Machine Tension: Ensure proper tension to prevent thread breakage and maintain seam integrity. Thicker seams and fabric need higher tension, while stitches for stretchable fabrics will break if the tension is too high.
- Aesthetics: While strength is essential, aesthetics should also be considered. Some stitches, like the flatlock stitch, provide excellent durability but may have a more visible appearance, giving a bolder look to the garment. That makes it inappropriate for delicate fabrics like silk or clean-looking garments.
BONUS: The 5 most common stitch types and their characteristics
Lockstitch
- It’s usually made by two threads.
- Neat appearance.
- Suitable for different fabrics and garment types.
- Commonly used for woven fabrics.
Overlock Stitch
- Widely used for constructing knit garments like T-shirts, activewear, and underwear.
- The elasticity varies depending on the stitch’s construction. The overlock 3T is the thinnest and most stretchable. The overlock 5T is the most robust and less stretchy.
- Usually, it trims the fabric edge while simultaneously overcasting the raw edge to prevent fraying.
- For woven fabrics, it’s commonly used to finish raw edges and prevent them from fraying.
Chain Stitch
- The thread forms a chain-like pattern underneath that makes it stretchable.
- Often used with other stitches, like locktitch or overlock, for added strength.
- Mosty is used in knit and woven fabric with a high shrinkage ratio, like most denims.
Coverstitch
- Double stitch line on the top side of the fabric with an interloped stitch (embroidery or overlock look) on the back.
- Stretchable and secure finish. Excellent stretch and recovery.
- Used for hemming knit fabrics.
- Also used as a decorative stitch.
Flatlock Stitch
- Both sides of the stitch show an interloped stitch.
- Comfortable seam with smooth, irritation-free finish.
- Strong, stretchable, and flexible.
- Commonly used in activewear and sportswear to reduce bulk. It is ideal for constructing athletic apparel where a flat, comfortable seam is essential.
Find more information about stitch types and their properties from pages 174 to 177 of the book Strong Seams.
This information is a part of the research conducted for our third book, Strong Seams, a seam catalogue focused on garment durability and quality.
We couldn’t include all the research in the book. However, we believe it’s worth sharing with people like you who are also interested in quality and long-lasting garments.
We hope the material is helpful. If you want to know more about our book Strong Seams, please visit the following link: book Strong Seams (link)
Consulted and Related Sources
- Askaroff, A. (2022). A Perfect Stitch. Independently published. ISBN 979-8789426159.
- British Standards Institution. (1991). BS3870: Part 1 and Part 2: Classification and Terminology of Stitch Types.
- ABC Seams® Pty. Ltd. (2021). 101 Sewing Seams: The Most Used Seams by Fashion Designers (2nd ed.). ABC Seams® Pty. Ltd. ISBN 978-0-6482734-6-2.
- Editors of Creative Publishing. (2009). Singer Complete Photo Guide to Sewing. Creative Publishing. ISBN 978-1589234345.
- Friend, R. L. (1977). Sewing Room Technical Handbook: Lock-stitch and Overlock Seams. Hatra. ISBN 0901056022.
- Kabir, S., Sultana, & Ali. (2016). Impact of Stitch Type and Stitch Density on Seam Properties. Journal of Science and Research. Retrieved from https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/5e30/1434ea134b064b5fc481b3104f82b83ff38e.pdf
- Coats. (2018). When quality control runs amok. Retrieved from https://www.coats.com/en/coats-in-action/coats-epic-verifi