CONSTRUCTION SEAMS

Properties:

  • Resistance: good
  • Strength: regular.
    It is stronger when using an overlocker (serger): C000-1 +SE and C000-1 (OS)
  • Versatility: excellent.
    It is suitable for most fabrics and either on straight or curved seams.
  • Flexibility: very good.
  • Elasticity: good to excellent.
    Good elongation recovery.
  • Cost: low.
    Easy and quick to make.
  • Others:
    No iron press required.

Uses:

  • Side seams, mostly on t-shirts.
  • Curved seams such as armholes.
  • Bags and accessories.

French Seam

Properties:

  • Resistance: very good.
  • Strength: very good.
  • Versatility: good.
  • Flexibility: poor.
  • Elasticity: poor.
  • Cost: medium.
  • Others:
    No iron press required.
    Neat finishing on the inside.

Uses:

  • High-end garments.
  • Sheer fabrics.
  • Side seams of shirts and tops.

Properties:
  • Resistance: good.
  • Strength: good to very good.
    It is stronger when adding a topstitch.
  • Versatility: excellent.
    It is suitable for any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams.
  • Flexibility: good to very good.
  • Elasticity: good to excellent.
    The elasticity increases a lot when it is sewn with overlock stitch, cover stitch or flatlock stitch.
  • Cost: low.
  • Others:
    From seam C100-3 to C100-5: the topstitch prevents seam allowance from stretching, raveling, fraying or curling.

 

Uses:

  • General purposes such as shoulder seam and curved seams.
  • Suitable for most types of clothing and accessories:
    Lined garments and no-exposed seams or edges.
    Ready-to-wear garments.
    Sportswear.

    Children's clothing.

Properties:

  • Resistance: very good to excellent.
  • Strength: excellent.
  • Versatility: good.
    It works better on medium-weight fabrics.
  • Flexibility: poor to regular.
  • Elasticity: poor.
    Stretch resistance.
  • Cost: medium to high.
  • Others:
    Neat finish on the inside.
    The binding must have the same care techniques as the fabric.
    Reversible.

Uses:

  • Give more strength to a seam.
  • ​Decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
  • High quality garments.
  • Unlined jackets, coats and outwear in general.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos (also see CD101 and CE101).

Properties:

  • Resistance: excellent.
  • Strength: excellent.
    It is one of the strongest construction seams.
  • Versatility: very good.
    It works better on straight seams or slightly curved seams.
  • Flexibility: regular to good.
  • Elasticity: poor.
    It works as a stabilizer, for instance on shoulder seams
  • Cost: regular to low.
  • Others:
    Also called "Flat Felled Seam" ,Self Bound Seam” or "English Seam". ​
    Clean finish on both sides.
    Reversible.

    In the industry, it's made by one only step
    .
    It prevents the seam allowance from frying.

Uses:

  • Shoulder and yoke seams.
  • Trousers: crotch and side seams.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Denim garments, such as jeans, shirts, and jackets.
  • Sportswear.
  • Men's wear, especially shirts and work garments.
  • Heavy-duty garments.
  • Unlined jackets and coats.

Properties:

  • Resistance: regular to poor.
  • Strength: regular to poor.
    It gets stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics.
  • Versatility: very good.
    Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
  • Flexibility: excellent.
  • Elasticity: good.
  • Cost: regular.
  • Others:
    Also known as "Butterfly Seam" or "Plain Seam".
    Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
    Seam allowance might need serged edges or topstitching to avoid fraying and raveling.

Uses:

  • Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
  • Collar band seam.
  • Side seams of formal trousers and skirts (not suitable on tight fit).
  • Bags and shoes.
  • Fur industry.

Properties:

  • Resistance: regular.
  • Strength: good.
    It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics.
  • Versatility: very good.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: regular to poor.
  • Cost: medium to high.
  • Others:
    Also called "Self-bound Open Seam".
    Neat finishing on the inside.
    This seams have a better finishing than the Basic Open Seams (group C200) and it is less time-consuming (cheaper) than the Hong Kong Seams (groups C201; C202; C203; C204 and C205).

Uses:

  • Formal clothing.
  • Unlined jackets and coats.
  • Reversible garments and exposed seams.

Properties:

  • Resistance: regular.
  • Strength: good.
    It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics.
  • Versatility: good.
    Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: poor.
  • Cost: high.
  • Others:
    Neat finish on the inside that gives a Couture finish to the garment.
    The binding protects seam allowances from fraying and adds a decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
    The binding requires the same care techniques as the fabric.

Uses:

  • High-end garments.
  • Unlined garments and exposed seams, for instance: jackets and coats.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Bags and accessories.

Properties:
  • Resistance: very good to excellent.
  • Strength: very good to excellent.
    It is stronger when adding a topstitch.
  • Versatility: excellent.
    It is suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams.
  • Flexibility: regular.
  • Elasticity: poor.
  • Cost: low.
  • Others:
    Clean finishing on both sides.
    Reversible.
    ​It prevents edge raveling.
Uses:
  • Lined garments.
  • Necklines seam of garments with collar without collar band.
  • Yoke and shoulder seams seam of shirts and blouses.
  • Cuffs.
  • Waistband seam of trousers and skirts.
  • Placket seam of unlined garments.
  • Bags and accessories such as shoes.

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