CONSTRUCTION SEAMS
Basic Seam
Stitching Options:
C000 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good
- Strength: regular.
It is stronger when using an overlocker (serger): C000-1 +SE and C000-1 (OS) - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for most fabrics and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: very good.
- Elasticity: good to excellent.
Good elongation recovery. - Cost: low.
Easy and quick to make. - Others:
No iron press required.
Uses:
- Side seams, mostly on t-shirts.
- Curved seams such as armholes.
- Bags and accessories.
French Seam
Stitching Options:
C010 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good.
- Strength: very good.
- Versatility: good.
- Flexibility: poor.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Cost: medium.
- Others:
No iron press required.
Neat finishing on the inside.
Uses:
- High-end garments.
- Sheer fabrics.
- Side seams of shirts and tops.
Felled Seam
Stitching Options:
C100 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good.
- Strength: good to very good.
It is stronger when adding a topstitch. - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: good to very good.
- Elasticity: good to excellent.
The elasticity increases a lot when it is sewn with overlock stitch, cover stitch or flatlock stitch. - Cost: low.
- Others:
From seam C100-3 to C100-5: the topstitch prevents seam allowance from stretching, raveling, fraying or curling.
Uses:
- General purposes such as shoulder seam and curved seams.
- Suitable for most types of clothing and accessories:
Lined garments and no-exposed seams or edges.
Ready-to-wear garments.
Sportswear.
Children's clothing.
(Felled) Bound Seam
Stitching Options:
C101 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good to excellent.
- Strength: excellent.
- Versatility: good.
It works better on medium-weight fabrics. - Flexibility: poor to regular.
- Elasticity: poor.
Stretch resistance. - Cost: medium to high.
- Others:
Neat finish on the inside.
The binding must have the same care techniques as the fabric.
Reversible.
Uses:
- Give more strength to a seam.
- Decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
- High quality garments.
- Unlined jackets, coats and outwear in general.
- Reversible garments.
- Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos (also see CD101 and CE101).
C110 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: excellent.
- Strength: excellent.
It is one of the strongest construction seams. - Versatility: very good.
It works better on straight seams or slightly curved seams. - Flexibility: regular to good.
- Elasticity: poor.
It works as a stabilizer, for instance on shoulder seams - Cost: regular to low.
- Others:
Also called "Flat Felled Seam" , “Self Bound Seam” or "English Seam".
Clean finish on both sides.
Reversible.
In the industry, it's made by one only step.
It prevents the seam allowance from frying.
Uses:
- Shoulder and yoke seams.
- Trousers: crotch and side seams.
- Reversible garments.
- Denim garments, such as jeans, shirts, and jackets.
- Sportswear.
- Men's wear, especially shirts and work garments.
- Heavy-duty garments.
- Unlined jackets and coats.
Open Seam (Single Fold)
Stitching Options:
C200 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular to poor.
- Strength: regular to poor.
It gets stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics. - Versatility: very good.
Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight. - Flexibility: excellent.
- Elasticity: good.
- Cost: regular.
- Others:
Also known as "Butterfly Seam" or "Plain Seam".
Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
Seam allowance might need serged edges or topstitching to avoid fraying and raveling.
Uses:
- Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
- Collar band seam.
- Side seams of formal trousers and skirts (not suitable on tight fit).
- Bags and shoes.
- Fur industry.
Open Seam (Double Fold)
Stitching Options:
C210 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular.
- Strength: good.
It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics. - Versatility: very good.
- Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: regular to poor.
- Cost: medium to high.
- Others:
Also called "Self-bound Open Seam".
Neat finishing on the inside.
This seams have a better finishing than the Basic Open Seams (group C200) and it is less time-consuming (cheaper) than the Hong Kong Seams (groups C201; C202; C203; C204 and C205).
Uses:
- Formal clothing.
- Unlined jackets and coats.
- Reversible garments and exposed seams.
Hong Kong Seam
Stitching Options:
C201 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular.
- Strength: good.
It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics. - Versatility: good.
Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Cost: high.
- Others:
Neat finish on the inside that gives a Couture finish to the garment.
The binding protects seam allowances from fraying and adds a decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
The binding requires the same care techniques as the fabric.
Uses:
- High-end garments.
- Unlined garments and exposed seams, for instance: jackets and coats.
- Reversible garments.
- Bags and accessories.
Sandwich Seam
Stitching Options:
CD190 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good to excellent.
- Strength: very good to excellent.
It is stronger when adding a topstitch. - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: regular.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Cost: low.
- Others:
Clean finishing on both sides.
Reversible.
It prevents edge raveling.
Uses:
- Lined garments.
- Necklines seam of garments with collar without collar band.
- Yoke and shoulder seams seam of shirts and blouses.
- Cuffs.
- Waistband seam of trousers and skirts.
- Placket seam of unlined garments.
- Bags and accessories such as shoes.
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