CONSTRUCTIONS
Basic Seam
Stitching Options:
C000 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular to good.
It is stronger when using an overlocker (serger): C000-1 +SE and C000-1 (OS) - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for most fabrics and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: very good.
- Elasticity: good to excellent.
Good elongation recovery. - Cost: low.
Easy and quick to make. - Others:
No iron press required.
Uses:
- Side seams, mostly on t-shirts.
- Curved seams such as armholes.
- Bags and accessories.
French Seam
Stitching Options:
C010 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good.
- Versatility: good.
- Flexibility: poor.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Cost: medium.
- Others:
Neat finishing on the inside.
Uses:
- High-end garments.
- Sheer fabrics.
- Side seams of shirts and tops.
Felled Seam
Stitching Options:
C100 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good to very good.
It is stronger when adding a topstitch. - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: good to very good.
- Elasticity: good to excellent.
The elasticity increases when it is sewn with overlock stitch, cover stitch or flatlock stitch. - Cost: low.
- Others:
Also called “Plain Seam”.
From seam C100-3 to C100-5: the topstitch prevents seam allowance from stretching, raveling, fraying or curling.
Uses:
- General purposes such as shoulder seam and curved seams.
- Suitable for most types of clothing and accessories:
Lined garments and no-exposed seams or edges.
Ready-to-wear garments.
Sportswear.
Children’s clothing.
(Felled) Bound Seam
Stitching Options:
C101 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good to excellent.
- Versatility: good.
It works better on medium-weight fabrics. - Flexibility: poor to regular.
- Elasticity: poor.
Stretch resistance. - Cost: medium to high.
- Others:
Neat finish on the inside.
The binding must have the same care techniques as the fabric.
Reversible.
Uses:
- Give more strength to a seam.
- Decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
- High quality garments.
- Unlined jackets, coats and outwear in general.
- Reversible garments.
- Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos (also see CD101 and CE101).
C110 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good to excellent.
- Versatility: good.
It works better on medium-weight fabrics. - Flexibility: poor to regular.
- Elasticity: poor.
Stretch resistance. - Cost: regular.
- Others:
Also called “Flat Felled Seam”, “Self Bound Seam” o “English Seam”.
Neat finish on the inside.
The binding must have the same care techniques as the fabric.
Reversible.
In the industry, it is made by one only step.
It prevents the seam allowance from fraying.
Uses:
- Give more strength to the seam.
- Decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
- High quality garments.
- Unlined jackets, coats and outwear in general.
- Reversible garments.
- Neckline seam of t-shirts and polos (also see CD101 and CE101).
Open Seam (Single Fold)
Stitching Options:
C200 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular to poor.
It gets stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics. - Versatility: very good.
Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight. - Flexibility: excellent.
- Elasticity: good.
- Cost: regular.
- Others:
Also known as “Butterfly Seam” or “Plain Seam”.
Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
Seam allowance might need serged edges or topstitching to avoid fraying and raveling.
Uses:
- Lined garments such as jackets and coats.
- Collar band seam.
- Side seams of formal trousers and skirts (not suitable on tight fit).
- Bags and shoes.
- Fur industry.
Open Seam (Double Fold)
Stitching Options:
C210 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular to good.
It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics. - Versatility: very good.
- Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: regular to poor.
- Cost: medium to high.
- Others:
Also called “Self-bound Open Seam”.
Neat finishing on the inside.
This seams have a better finishing than the Basic Open Seams (group C200) and it is less time-consuming (cheaper) than the Hong Kong Seams (groups C201; C202; C203; C204 and C205).
Uses:
- Formal clothing.
- Unlined jackets and coats.
- Reversible garments and exposed seams.
Hong Kong Seam
Stitching Options:
C201 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular to good.
It is stronger when using a short stitch length to join the fabrics. - Versatility: good.
Works better on woven fabrics of medium and heavy-weight. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Cost: high.
- Others:
Neat finish on the inside that gives a Couture finish to the garment.
The binding protects seam allowances from fraying and adds a decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
The binding requires the same care techniques as the fabric.
Uses:
- High-end garments.
- Unlined garments and exposed seams, for instance: jackets and coats.
- Reversible garments.
- Bags and accessories.
Sandwich Seam
Stitching Options:
CD190 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good to excellent.
It is stronger when adding a topstitch. - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: regular.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Cost: low.
- Others:
Clean finishing on both sides.
Reversible.
It prevents edge raveling.
Uses:
- Lined garments.
- Necklines seam of garments with collar without collar band.
- Yoke and shoulder seams seam of shirts and blouses.
- Cuffs.
- Waistband seam of trousers and skirts.
- Placket seam of unlined garments.
- Bags and accessories such as shoes.
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