FINISHES
Unhemmed Edge
Stitching Options:
H000 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular.
It is stronger when polishing the edge. - Versatility: excellent.
It is suitable for any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams. - Flexibility: very good to excellent.
- Elasticity: very good to excellent.
- Cost: low.
- Others:
Also called “Flat Edge” or “Basic Edge”
This group of seams includes: Raw Edge, Serged Edge, Rolled Stitch Edge.
Consider if the fabrics frays or not, and what is the desired finishing.
Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
Uses:
- Garments made of leather and fabrics that do not flare.
- Edges of tops and dresses made of knit fabric.
- Row-edges and unhemmed garments.
- Bottom of full skirts made in light-weight fabrics.
- Draped and bias-cut edges.
- Curved edges.
- Casual clothing / ready-to-wear garments.
- Bags and accessories.
- Upholstery.
Single Fold Hem
Stitching Options:
H100 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: regular to good.
- Versatility: very good.
Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit), either on straight edges, curves, and bias-cut.
Widely used on knit fabrics. - Flexibility: excellent.
- Elasticity: excellent.
Good elongation recovery. - Cost: low.
- Others:
Also known as “Straight Hem”.
Hem Width: commonly made of 7 to 10 mm width (in inches: 0.25” to 0.4”). If a wider hem is required, please check group H120: Single Fold Hem – WIDE.
Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
To add extra weight to the hem, please check seams from H101 to H105.
Uses:
- Ready-to-wear garments.
- Widely used on garments made of knit fabric such as sportswear.
- Fabrics that do not fray: fleece, velvet, vinyl, faux suede.
- Sleeve and bottom hem of t-shirts: H100-2 (CS).
- Plackets and slits.
- Curved hems, for instance: bottoms of A-Line dresses and skirts.
- Ruffles and flounces.
- Fur industry.
H110 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good to very good.
- Versatility: very good.
Widely used on woven fabrics. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: good.
- Cost: low.
- Others:
Also known as “Over-welt Hem”.
Hem Width: commonly made of 12mm width (1/2”). A narrow hem (H110-12) is 5 to 7 mm width (1/4”), and a Roll Hem is 3 to 5mm width (1/8″). If a wider hem is required, please check group H130: Double Fold Hem – WIDE.
Neat finishing on the inside.
Uses:
- Hems on woven fabrics.
- Ready-to-wear garments.
- Suitable on hems of most types of clothing and accessories: sleeves, shirts and blouses’ bottoms, casual tops and dresses, skirts and trousers, children wear, bags, shoes, accessories, curtains.
- Plackets and slits.
- Pocket opening.
- Ruffles and flounces: H110-10 (Rolled Hem)
Double Fold Hem | Wide
H130 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good
- Versatility: very good.
A piece of interfacing (or interlining) might be needed to get the best result. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: good.
- Cost: regular.
- Others:
Good choice to add extra weight to the hem.
Neat finishing on the inside.
Hem-Width is usually 3cm wide (in inches: 1.2”), however, it could vary depending on the design (designers should specify this measure on the tech pack).
Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
Uses:
- Hems on woven fabrics: blouses, dresses, skirts, bags, home-decor accessories.
- Bottoms of formal trousers and skirts.
- Sleeve hems.
- Plackets of shirts and outwear.
- Jacket sleeve slits and back vents.
- Pocket openings.
- Reversible garments.
Faced Hem | Self-Polished
H150 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good to very good.
It is stronger when adding an interfacing. - Versatility: good to very good.
It works perfect on woven fabrics, either on straight and curved hems. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: poor to regular.
- Cost: medium.
- Others:
Neat finishing on the inside.
It works better on wovens.
A piece of interfacing might be needed to get the best result.
Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
It is a good choice to add weight to a hem.
It could be bulky if using heavy-weight fabrics.
The facing stabilizes the edge.
Uses:
- Necklines and armholes of sleeveless tops and dresses.
- Plackets of shirts, blouses, and jackets.
- Bottoms of sleeves, tops, dresses, and skirts.
- Bottoms of unlined jackets and coats.
- Curved hems and hems cut on the bias.
- Cuffs and cuff vents.
- Waistband of skirts and formal pants.
- Pocket opening.
- Reversible garments.
- Bags, shoes, and home decor.
Bound Hem
Stitching Options:
H101 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: very good
- Strength: very good.
- Versatility: very good.
It works in almost any fabric (woven and knit), either for straight or curved hems. - Flexibility: regular.
- Elasticity: poor.
- Poor elongation recovery.
- Cost: medium to high.
- Others:
Also known as Hong Kong Finishing.
Good choice to add extra weight to the hem.
The binding protects seam allowances from fraying and adds a decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
Neat finishing on the inside.
Hem-Width is usually between 7 and 10 mm wide (in inches: 0.25″ to 0.4″). See group H150 for wider hems.
Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
The binding requires the same care techniques as the fabric.
Uses:
- High-quality garments.
- Curved hems and edges cut on the bias.
- Necklines.
- Armholes (sleeveless garments)
- Bottoms and cuffs.
- Narrow plackets.
- Opening edge of patch pockets.
- Reversible garments.
- Bags and accessories.
Sandwich Hem
Stitching Options:
HD190 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good to very good
- Versatility: excellent.
Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit), either for straight or curved hems. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: regular to poor.
- Cost: low.
- Others:
Interfacing (or interlining) is optional.
Neat finishing on the inside.
Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
Uses:
- Lined garments: bottoms, necklines, cuffs, and sleeves.
- Reversible garments.
- Collars and hoods.
- Curved and cut on the bias edges.
- Lapel edges.
- Edges of pocket depths.
- Keyhole cut-out.
- Bags, shoes, and accessories.
H210 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good
- Versatility: excellent.
Suitable for almost any fabric, either on straight and curved edges.
When sewing curved edges, it works better if the binding is cut on the bias.
The band requires the same care techniques as the main fabric. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: good to poor.
The elongation recovery improves when the band is made of knit fabric or cut on the bias. - Cost: regular.
- Others:
Also known as “Banded Hem”.
The band can be used as a tunnel to add an elastic band.
The band adds a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
Band Width: usually the band is 10 mm wide (in inches: 0.4″), however, it could vary depending on the design. Designers should specify this measure on the tech pack.
Uses:
- Commonly used on garments made of knit fabrics such as t-shirts and sweatshirts.
- Sportswear.
- Curved edges or edges cut on the bias.
- Necklines of t-shirts, tops and dresses.
- Shirts and blouses cuffs.
- Armhole edges of singlets or sleeveless tops/dresses.
- Waistbands with elastic band.
- Gathered hems with elastic band.
- Knitted cuffs and bottoms (wide band, usually made of rib), for instance, joggings.
H310 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: good to very good.
- Versatility: very good.
Suitable for almost any fabric.
It works better on straight or slightly curved edges.
The tape (or lace) requires the same care techniques as the main fabric. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: good to poor.
- Cost: regular.
- Others:
Also known as “Taped Hem”.
The tape (or lace) adds a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
Tape Width: it usually measures 10 mm width (in inches: 0.4″), however, it could vary depending on the design. Designers should specify this measure on the tech pack.
Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
Uses:
- Sportswear.
- Lingerie and swimsuits.
- Shirts and blouses cuffs.
- Ribbed necklines and cuffs of polo t-shirts.
Binded Edge (Option 1)
Stitching Options:
H200 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: excellent.
- Versatility: very good.
Suitable for almost any fabric, either on straight and curved edges.
The binding requires the same care techniques as the main fabric. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: poor, except when using a stretchable binding.
- Cost: medium.
- Others:
Also known as “Bias Bound Edge”.
Neat finish on both sides.
The double fold binding reinforces the edge adding more structure. It also gives a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
Good option to add extra weight to a finishing.
Uses:
- Ready-to-wear garments.
- Sportswear.
- Lingerie and swimsuits.
- Reversible garments.
- Accessories: bags, footwear, home-decor.
- Fur industry.
- Curved hems.
- Edges cut on the bias.
- Necklines of t-shirts, tops, and dresses.
- Sleeve hems.
- Armhole edges of singlets or sleeveless tops/dresses.
- Slits on cuffs.
- Plackets.
Taped Edge
Stitching Options:
H300 - Properties and Uses
Properties:
- Resistance: excellent.
- Versatility: very good.
Suitable for almost any fabric.
It works better on straight or slightly curved hems.
The tape requires the same care techniques as the main fabric. - Flexibility: good.
- Elasticity: poor, except when using a stretchable tape.
- Cost: medium.
- Others:
Neat finish on both sides.
The tape reinforces the edge adding more structure. It also gives a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
Uses:
Ready-to-wear garments.
Sportswear.
Lingerie and swimsuits.
Reversible garments.
Sleeve hems.
Plackets and slits.
Edges cut on the bias that need to be stabilized.
Edge of baby blankets.
Accessories: bags, footwear, home-decor, blanket edges.
Fur industry.
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