HEMS & FINISHES

Properties:

  • Resistance: regular.
  • Strength: regular to good.
  • Versatility: very good.
    Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit), either on straight edges, curves and bias cut.
    Widely used on knit fabrics.
  • Flexibility: excellent.
  • Elasticity: excellent.
  • Good elongation recovery.
  • Cost: low.
  • Others:
    Also known as "Straight Hem".
    Hem Width: commonly made of 7 to 10 mm width (in inches: 0.25” to 0.4”). If a wider hem is required, please check group H120: Single Fold Hem - WIDE.
    Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
    To add an extra weight to the hem, please check seams from H101 to H105.

Uses:

  • Ready-to-wear garments.
  • Widely used on garments made of knit fabric such as sportswear.
  • Fabrics that do not fray: fleece, velvet, vinyl, faux suede.
  • Sleeve and bottom hem of t-shirts: H100-2 (CS).
  • Plackets and slits.
  • Curved hems, for instance: bottoms of A-Line dresses and skirts.
  • Ruffles and flounces.
  • Fur industry.

Properties:

  • Resistance: good
  • Strength: very good.
  • Versatility: very good.
    Widely used on woven fabrics.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: good.
  • Cost: low.
  • Others:
    Also known as "Over-welt Hem".
    Hem Width: commonly made of 1cm width (in inches: 0.4"). A narrow hem (see H110-12) is 3 to 5mm width (in inches: 0.1" to 0.2"). If a wider hem is required, please check group H130: Double Fold Hem - WIDE.
    Neat finishing on the inside.

Uses:

  • Hems on woven fabrics.
  • Ready-to-wear garments.
  • Suitable on hems of most types of clothing and accessories: sleeves, shirts and blouses’ bottoms, casual tops and dresses, skirts and trousers, children wear, bags, shoes, accessories, curtains.
  • Plackets and slits.
  • Pocket opening.
  • Ruffles and flounces: H110-10 (Rolled Hem)

Properties:

  • Resistance: good
  • Strength: good.
  • Versatility: very good.
    A piece of interfacing (or interlining) might be needed to get the best result.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: good.
  • Cost: regular.
  • Others:
    Good choice to add extra weight to the hem.
    Neat finishing on the inside.
    Hem-Width is usually 3cm wide (in inches: 1.2”), however, it could vary depending on the design (designers should specify this measure on the tech pack).
    Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.

Uses:

  • Hems on woven fabrics: blouses, dresses, skirts, bags, home-decor accessories.
  • Bottoms of formal trousers and skirts.
  • Sleeve hems.
  • Plackets of shirts and outwear.
  • Jacket sleeve slits and back vents.
  • Pocket openings.
  • Reversible garments.

Properties:

  • Resistance: very good
  • Strength: very good.
  • Versatility: very good.
    It works in almost any fabric (woven and knit), either for straight or curved hems.
  • Flexibility: regular.
  • Elasticity: poor.
  • Poor elongation recovery.
  • Cost: medium to high.
  • Others:
    Also known as Hong Kong Finishing.
    Good choice to add
    extra weight to the hem.
    The binding protects seam allowances from fraying and adds a decorative touch if using a contrasting or coordinating color.
    Neat finishing on the inside.
    Hem-Width is usually between 7 and 10 mm wide (in inches: 0.25" to 0.4"). See group H150 for wider hems.
    Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
    The binding requires the same care techniques as the fabric.

Uses:

  • High-quality garments.
  • Curved hems.
  • Necklines.
  • Armholes (sleeveless garments)
  • Hems and cuffs.
  • Narrow plackets.
  • Opening edge of patch pockets.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Bags and accessories.

Properties:
  • Resistance: very good
  • Strength: good.
  • Versatility: excellent.
    Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit), either for straight or curved hems.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: regular to poor.
  • Cost: low.
  • Others:
    Interfacing (or interlining) is optional.
    Neat finishing on the inside.
    Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.
Uses:
  • Lined garments: bottoms, necklines, cuffs, and sleeves.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Collars and hoods.
  • Curved hems.
  • Hems cut on the bias.
  • Lapel edges.
  • Edges of pocket depths.
  • Keyhole cut-out.
  • Bags, shoes, and accessories.

Properties:

  • Resistance: good
  • Strength: good.
  • Versatility: excellent.
    Suitable for almost any fabric, either on straight and curved edges.
    When sewing curved edges, it works better if the binding is cut on the bias.
    The band requires the same care techniques as the main fabric.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: good to poor.
    The elongation recovery improves when the band is made of knit fabric or cut on the bias.
  • Cost: regular.
  • Others:
    Also known as "Banded Hem".
    The band can be used as a tunnel to add an elastic band.
    The band adds a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
    Band Width: usually the band is 10 mm wide (in inches: 0.4"), however, it could vary depending on the design. Designers should specify this measure on the tech pack.

Uses:

  • Commonly used on garments made of knit fabrics such as t-shirts and sweatshirts.
  • Sportswear.
  • Curved edges or edges cut on the bias.
  • Necklines of t-shirts, tops and dresses.
  • Shirts and blouses cuffs.
  • Armhole edges of singlets or sleeveless tops/dresses.
  • Waistbands with elastic band.
  • Gathered hems with elastic band.
  • Knitted cuffs and bottoms (wide band, usually made of rib), for instance, joggings.

Properties:

  • Resistance: good
  • Strength: very good.
  • Versatility: very good.
    Suitable for almost any fabric.
    It works better on straight or slightly curved edges.
    The tape (or lace) requires the same care techniques as the main fabric.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: good to poor.
  • Cost: regular.
  • Others:
    Also known as  "Taped Hem".
    The tape (or lace) adds a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
    Tape Width: it usually measures 10 mm width (in inches: 0.4"), however, it could vary depending on the design. Designers should specify this measure on the tech pack.
    Reversible: the wrong side can be used as the right side.

Uses:

  • Sportswear.
  • Lingerie and swimsuits.
  • Shirts and blouses cuffs.
  • Ribbed necklines and cuffs of polo t-shirts.

Properties:

  • Resistance: excellent.
  • Strength: excellent.
  • Versatility: very good.
    Suitable for almost any fabric, either on straight and curved edges.
    The binding requires the same care techniques as the main fabric.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: poor, except when using a stretchable binding.
  • Cost: medium.
  • Others:
    Also known as "Bias Bound Edge".
    Neat finish on both sides.
    The double fold binding reinforces the edge adding more structure. It also gives a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
    Good option to add extra weight to a finishing.

Uses:

  • Ready-to-wear garments.
  • Sportswear.
  • Lingerie and swimsuits.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Accessories: bags, footwear, home-decor.
  • Fur industry.
  • Curved hems.
  • Edges cut on the bias.
  • Necklines of t-shirts, tops, and dresses.
  • Sleeve hems.
  • Armhole edges of singlets or sleeveless tops/dresses.
  • Slits on cuffs.
  • Plackets.

Properties:
  • Resistance: excellent.
  • Strength: excellent.
  • Versatility: very good.
    Suitable for almost any fabric.
    It works better on straight or slightly curved hems.
    The tape requires the same care techniques as the main fabric.
  • Flexibility: good.
  • Elasticity: poor, except when using a stretchable tape.
  • Cost: medium.
  • Others:
    Neat finish on both sides.
    The tape reinforces the edge adding more structure. It also gives a decorative touch if using contrasting or coordinating color.
    Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.

 

Uses:

  • Ready-to-wear garments.
  • Sportswear.
  • Lingerie and swimsuits.
  • Reversible garments.
  • Accessories: bags, footwear, home-decor, blanket edges.
  • Fur industry.
  • Sleeve hems.
  • Plackets and slits.

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