Restricted Substances List (RSL) in Fashion
A Guide to Safety and Sustainability
Understand the importance of the RSL, learn about common restricted substances, and discover how to ensure your products comply.
What is the "Restricted Substances List (RSL)" in fashion?
In the fashion industry, the Restricted Substances List (RSL) is a critical tool used to ensure the safety and well-being of consumers and workers in the supply chain while also minimizing environmental impact. It’s essentially a blacklist of chemicals and substances that are either prohibited or strictly limited in the production of textiles, garments, footwear, and accessories.
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There’s no single, universal RSL. Different brands, retailers, and countries might have their own versions with varying restriction levels. Some prominent examples include:
- The American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA) RSL
- Oeko-Tex Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX® (independent certification system)
- The European Union’s REACH (Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals) regulations
RSL Breakdown
The specific substances on an RSL can vary depending on the brand, retailer, or industry association that creates it. However, some common examples include:
- Harmful Dyes: Azo dyes release carcinogenic amines, heavy metals like lead and cadmium, and formaldehyde, which can cause skin irritation and respiratory problems.
- Flame Retardants: Certain flame retardants can pose health risks and environmental concerns.
- Harmful Solvents: Some solvents used in textile processing can be toxic and cause air pollution.
- Allergens: Substances like latex or certain nickel compounds that can lead to allergic reactions in some people.
- Microplastics: Tiny plastic fibres released while washing synthetic garments are a threat to marine life and potentially human health.
RSL Purpose
The RSL aims to protect consumer health and safety by minimizing exposure to harmful chemicals used in textile processing.
It also promotes responsible manufacturing practices by encouraging the use of safer alternatives.
Important Points
- RSLs are constantly evolving as new information about the health and environmental impacts of chemicals emerges.
- Compliance with RSLs often involves testing textiles and garments to ensure they meet the set limits for restricted substances.
- AQL (Acceptable Quality Level) helps determine the appropriate sample size for testing based on the lot size and desired confidence level in the results.
Who Uses RSLs?
- Fashion Brands: Many major fashion brands develop their own RSLs or follow industry-wide standards.
- Retailers: Retailers often set requirements for their suppliers to comply with specific RSLs.
- Industry Associations: Organizations like the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Program collaborate with brands and retailers to establish industry-wide RSLs.
Benefits of using the RSL
- Protects consumers from exposure to harmful chemicals.
- Promotes responsible sourcing and manufacturing practices.
- Minimizes environmental impact by encouraging the use of safer chemicals.
Important Notes:
- Some RSLs can vary depending on the brand, retailer, or industry standards.
- Regulations regarding restricted substances can also vary by country or region.
AFIRM RSL Guidance
The AFIRM Group is a collaborative forum for leading apparel and footwear brands. It focuses on harmonizing product chemical requirements related to the RSL across the apparel and textile industry.
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It also provides resources such as the AFIRM RSL Guidance, a widely used tool that helps brands adhere to the RSL standards and ensure their products meet safety and sustainability requirements.
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The AFIRM RSL Guidance offers:
- Updated lists of restricted substances.
- Acceptable concentration limits for each substance.
- Testing methods to ensure compliance with the RSL.
This information is a part of the research conducted for our third book, Strong Seams, a seam catalogue focused on garment durability and quality.
We couldn’t include all the research in the book. However, we believe it’s worth sharing with people like you who are also interested in quality and long-lasting garments.
We hope the material is helpful. If you want to know more about our book Strong Seams, please visit the following link: book Strong Seams (link)
Consulted and Related Sources
- Carr, H., & Latham. (2008). Technology of Clothing Manufacture (4th ed.). Blackwell Science. ISBN 978-1405161985.
- Henninger, C. E., Niinimäki, K., Blazquez, M., & Jones, C. (2022). Sustainable Fashion Management. Routledge. ISBN 978-0367564551.
- Gwilt, A. (2020). A Practical Guide to Sustainable Fashion. Bloomsbury Academic. ISBN 978-1350067043.
- Milano Unica (n/m). What is a Restricted Substance List?. Retrieved from https://www.milanounica.it/en/what-is-a-restricted-substance-list-rsl
- American Apparel and Footwear Association (n/m). Product Safety Guidance: Restricted Substances List (RSL). Retrieved from https://www.aafaglobal.org/AAFA/Solutions_Pages/Restricted_Substance_List.aspx#:~:text=This%20Restricted%20Substance%20List%20(RSL,footwear%20products%20around%20the%20world.
- AFIRM Group RSL (2021). AFIRM Restricted Substances List (RSL). Retrieved from https://afirm-group.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/03/2021_AFIRM_RSL_2021_0226a.pdf
- ABC Seams® Pty. Ltd.(2025). 7 Best Practices to Make High-Quality Garments. Retrieved from https://abcseams.com/7-best-practices-to-make-high-quality-garments/