Prototyping Mistakes
Why doesn’t your prototype look like what you designed?
Learn about the most frequent mistakes in garment prototyping and how to fix them—before it’s too late!
Garment prototyping is a critical phase in fashion collection development, as it allows for the identification of problems before mass production.
When a clothing brand outsources pattern development and prototypes, precise communication and detailed tech packs become essential.
Unlike brands with in-house pattern-making teams, outsourced manufacturers rely entirely on the information provided to them on the tech packs. Any ambiguity can lead to errors in development, extending the development process and ultimately affecting the team’s efficiency and the final product’s quality.
Since the manufacturer is responsible for creating the pattern and prototype, the brand must trust their interpretation through the tech packs.
Poor communication leads to products that look and fit differently than intended.
Categories
Prototyping errors are usually divided into three main categories:
- Measurements, Fit, and Pattern
- Construction and Finishes (Workmanship)
- Materials
1. Measurements, Fit, and Pattern
A prototype is not just a visual sample but a functional test of the garment. For example, imagine you approve a leggings prototype without testing it on real models. Then, the garment might be too tight in some areas and too loose in others due to the fabric’s elasticity not being accounted for in the measurement chart.
Common mistakes:
- Approving the prototype without fit tests on real models.
- Not checking the garment in different postures and movements.
- Not considering the fabric’s elasticity and how it affects measurements.
How to avoid it:
- Define the desired fit with examples or visual references.
- Provide samples of similar garments with the correct fit when possible.
- Include a measurement chart with tolerances.
- Perform fittings on people with the correct measurements and gather feedback.
- Test the prototype under different conditions (sitting, walking, stretching).
2. Construction and Finishes (Workmanship)
Your manufacturer needs clear instructions on finishes and construction details. If these specifications are not precise, the manufacturer will choose them for you, and the result may differ from your vision and desired quality. For example, a minimalist clothing brand received their prototypes with unfinished internal seams, noticeably lowering the product’s quality, not only in appearance and durability but also causing uncomfortable rubbing. The manufacturer assumed the garment didn’t require it because the technical sheet didn’t specify it.
Common mistakes:
- Not detailing construction elements and finishes.
- Not specifying the type of seam, stitch, and necessary reinforcements.
- Not performing strength tests on seams and trims.
How to avoid it:
- Create detailed technical sheets with clear illustrations.
- Specify constructions and finishes, especially when these details differ from the manufacturer’s standards (e.g., simple or reinforced hem).
- Include reference photos of desired finishes in the technical sheet.
- Listen to the manufacturer’s suggestions for construction improvements.
- Perform tensile and strength tests before approving the prototype.
3. Materials
Using the wrong materials can drastically alter the final product’s appearance, fit, and durability. For example, if you approve of a dress prototype made of light cotton but in production, they will use a heavier rayon. As a result, the dress’s drape will be completely different from the approved dress, changing the original design and desired look.
Common mistakes:
- Not conducting tests on washing, wear, and material quality.
- Not foreseeing fabric shrinkage or stretching after washing.
- Not specifying the exact type of fabric, including weight and composition.
- Approving the prototype with a different fabric than the final production.
How to avoid it:
- Provide the manufacturer with the exact fabric or one with similar characteristics.
- Include fabric specifications in the technical sheet (weight, composition, code or reference, elasticity).
- Conduct washing tests to verify shrinkage, color fade, and durability.
- Perform washing tests before mass production.
Summary
Garment prototyping mistakes typically fall into three categories: Measurements and Fit, Construction and Finishes, and Materials. If not managed correctly, these issues can affect fit, durability, and overall product quality.
How to Avoid These Issues:
- Create detailed technical sheets with clear specifications.
- Conduct fit tests on real models before approving a prototype.
- Maintain open communication with the manufacturer.
- Perform strength and quality tests on seams and materials before mass production.
Benefits of Efficient Prototyping:
- Reduces development time and costs by minimizing production errors.
- Improves product quality, ensuring better results in the market.
- Decreases team stress by reducing the need for constant revisions.
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