Hems with Detail | Cool Easy Seams Series

Cool Easy Seams Series

Fold Hem with Detail

Seams H110B / H110T / H110C

Details are important, and we all know it; but since I’ve been analyzing sewing seams for the last years, my passion for well-made constructions and smart finishes keeps growing and growing.

“Knowledge is Power” 

If you don’t know the seams options available in the industry, you won’t know how to include them to your designs.

In this new series of articles called “Cool Easy Seams” we’ll learn how to make a difference by adding simple cool sewing touches to your designs.

Let’s start with three simple variations of the so widely used Double Fold Hem (H110), also known as Over-Welt Hem”.
These techniques consist in adding a trimming (either a band, a tape, or a corded piping) right under the edge of the fold:
  1. H110B: Double Fold Hem with Band
  2. H110T: Double Fold Hem with Tape
  3. H110C: Double Fold Hem with Piping
Double Fold Hem
Option 1

Double Fold Hem with Band

Seams H110B

It works well either on a straight or a curved edge. For example, bottoms of blouses, shirts, coats, etc.

Option 2

Double Fold Hem with Tape

Seams H110T

It works better on straight or slightly curved edges. For example, bottoms of skirts, sleeves, and pants.

Option 3

Double Fold Hem with Piping

Seams H110C

The cord reinforces the structure of the garment/product. It’s widely used on products made of medium and heavy-weight fabrics such as coats, and accessories (bags, shoes, etc.).

Woven vs. Knit

These seams are mostly used on woven fabrics.

But, can I use them on knit fabrics?

Yes, you can use them on knitted fabrics. In that case, I suggest you use a stretchable trimming, for instance, lingerie elastic. Or use a trimming made of light-weight fabric. Also, take into account that any of these three seams will make the hem more resistant, less elastic.

They all work better on medium and heavy-weight fabrics with low elongation recovery (less than 50% – sewing direction). If the selected fabric is light-weight and a high elongation recovery (more than 50%), I recommend you to make/ask for a proper swatch (I mean, with the right fabric and trim) to be sure the seam fits well.

Main Uses

  • bottoms: sleeves, tops, pants, skirts, dresses, jackets
  • pocket openings 
  • narrow plackets
  • bags, shoes, and accessories


Exposed Seam (reversible)

Even though the trim detail is on the inside of the garment, some fabrics allow us to make the hem towards the outer face, therefore the trim will be visible.
Pocket Opening


  • Resistance and elasticity: for any of the three options, the hem will be a bit stronger, and less flexible than the basic seam H110.

  • Thickness: for most garments, it’s recommendable to use a trim with a similar fabric weight (or a bit lighter) than the main fabric. If the trim is heavier than the fabric, the hem could be too thick.


  • Care: the trim must have the same care techniques than the fabric: shrinking, colourfast dye, ironing, washing, etc.


  • H110C – Keep in mind there are different thickness measurements for cords: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, 10mm. Bags and shoes might need a 3 to 5mm cord (or even more). For most garments, the thickness of the cord is between 1mm to 3mm, depending on the weight of the main fabric (I mean, the garment fabric): the heavier is the fabric, the thicker is the cord.
    – sleeve bottom made of light silk, use a cord of 1mm
    – sleeve bottom made of heavy denim, use a cord of 3mm

In case of doubts, I suggest you make/ask for a swatch with the selected material.

Some Topstitching Alternatives:

Find more information about these seams at the Seams Gallery:

Any questions? 
Please, leave your questions or comment below, or send me an email at belu@abcseams.com

If you liked this article, take a look at the book 101 Sewing Seams: a reference guide for sewing seams.

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Belu Chi | ​Technical Designer


My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
​I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.

Picture        Picture

This article was first published at Seampedia.
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