Cool Easy Seams Series
Fold Hem with Detail
Seams H110B / H110T / H110C
“Knowledge is Power”
If you don’t know the seams options available in the industry, you won’t know how to include them to your designs.
In this new series of articles called “Cool Easy Seams” we’ll learn how to make a difference by adding simple cool sewing touches to your designs.
- H110B: Double Fold Hem with Band
- H110T: Double Fold Hem with Tape
- H110C: Double Fold Hem with Piping
Double Fold Hem with Band
It works well either on a straight or a curved edge. For example, bottoms of blouses, shirts, coats, etc.
Double Fold Hem with Tape
It works better on straight or slightly curved edges. For example, bottoms of skirts, sleeves, and pants.
Double Fold Hem with Piping
The cord reinforces the structure of the garment/product. It’s widely used on products made of medium and heavy-weight fabrics such as coats, and accessories (bags, shoes, etc.).
Woven vs. Knit
But, can I use them on knit fabrics?
Yes, you can use them on knitted fabrics. In that case, I suggest you use a stretchable trimming, for instance, lingerie elastic. Or use a trimming made of light-weight fabric. Also, take into account that any of these three seams will make the hem more resistant, less elastic.
They all work better on medium and heavy-weight fabrics with low elongation recovery (less than 50% – sewing direction). If the selected fabric is light-weight and a high elongation recovery (more than 50%), I recommend you to make/ask for a proper swatch (I mean, with the right fabric and trim) to be sure the seam fits well.
- bottoms: sleeves, tops, pants, skirts, dresses, jackets
- pocket openings
- narrow plackets
- bags, shoes, and accessories
Exposed Seam (reversible)
- Resistance and elasticity: for any of the three options, the hem will be a bit stronger, and less flexible than the basic seam H110.
- Thickness: for most garments, it’s recommendable to use a trim with a similar fabric weight (or a bit lighter) than the main fabric. If the trim is heavier than the fabric, the hem could be too thick.
- Care: the trim must have the same care techniques than the fabric: shrinking, colourfast dye, ironing, washing, etc.
- H110C – Keep in mind there are different thickness measurements for cords: 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 3mm, 5mm, 8mm, 10mm. Bags and shoes might need a 3 to 5mm cord (or even more). For most garments, the thickness of the cord is between 1mm to 3mm, depending on the weight of the main fabric (I mean, the garment fabric): the heavier is the fabric, the thicker is the cord.
– sleeve bottom made of light silk, use a cord of 1mm
– sleeve bottom made of heavy denim, use a cord of 3mm
In case of doubts, I suggest you make/ask for a swatch with the selected material.
Some Topstitching Alternatives:
Find more information about these seams at the Seams Gallery:
Belu Chi | Technical Designer
My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.