Step-by-Step | Tutorial
This seam is ideal to finish the curved edges like necklines, and also to reduce the thickness of seams in heavy fabrics.
Double Fold Hem with Band
Level of Difficulty: medium
Unfold the bias tape and join it to the fabric, matching right sides together.
Sew along the bias tape crease line.
Fold over the bias tape. Be sure the seam allowance is under the bias.
Sew along the edge of the bias.
Fold the binding over the inner face of the fabric.
Sew along the edge of the bias tape.
The most used topstitches
H101-9: Basic Topstitch
Steps 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 (skip step 4)
H101-10: Basic Topstitch + Understitch
H101-12: Double Topstitch
Steps 1, 2, 3, 5, 4, 6 (exchange steps 4 and 5)
See more options for this seam here.
When to use this seam?
- Curved edges like necklines, armholes and shaped hems (can also be used on straight edges)
- High quality products
- Narrow plackets
- Side openings of tops (shirts, blouses and polos)
- Heavy fabrics (reduces the thickness of the seam)
- Unlined garments or accessories
- Reversible garments
It is not recommended for edges that require stretching.
Types of fabrics and bindings
If you use it for lightweight fabrics, the quality of the binding must have a similar weight (or lighter) than the main fabric.
than the fabric of the garment or product”
The bias binding is a cloth tape characterised by its adaptability to different shapes. This is due to the elasticity provided by the bias cut of the fabric (45 degrees with respect to the selvages).
If you buy it, you’ll find it in different qualities (poplin and satin are the most common, there are also new ones that are stretchable); in plain colors, with prints, dots and Vichy type.
The most common measures are 10 mm (0.4 in) and 20 mm (0.8 in), although you can also get it from 13 mm (0.5 in), 25 mm (1 in) , 30 mm (1.2 in), and 50 mm (2 in).
The advantage of making the bias binding yourself is that you can use the fabric that you like best to combine, and you can make it as wide as you want.
I usually make my own ones. I use satin or cotton lightweight fabrics most of the times. I also make them of knit fabrics to be used on knitted garments.
Here is a video-tutorial from Treasurie which explains how to make your own bias binding: How to Make Continuous Bias Tape
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Belu Chi | Technical Designer
My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.