Bound Hem H101-10 | Step-by-Step Series

Step-by-Step | Tutorial

Bound Hem

Seam H101-10

Bound Hem
The Bound Hem (also known as Hong Kong Finishing) is a high quality finish that consists of covering the edge of the fabric to the inside with a bias binding (or bias tape).

This seam is ideal to finish the curved edges like necklines, and also to reduce the thickness of seams in heavy fabrics.
Bound Hem

Double Fold Hem with Band

In this tutorial you’ll learn how to make the seam H101-10: Bound Hem with Basic Topstitch and Understitch.

Level of Difficulty: medium
Step 1: 
Unfold the bias tape and join it to the fabric, matching right sides together.
Step 2:
Sew along the bias tape crease line.
Step 3:
Fold over the bias tape. ​Be sure the seam allowance is under the bias.
Step 4:
Sew along the edge of the bias.
Step 5:
Fold the binding over the inner face of the fabric.
Step 6:
Sew along the edge of the bias tape.


​Video Step-by-Step

The most used topstitches

As many other seams, there are several alternatives for stitching. In this case, there are 3 options that are the most used:

H101-9: Basic Topstitch
Steps 1, 2, 3, 5, 6 (skip step 4)

H101-10: Basic Topstitch + Understitch
(this tutorial)

H101-12: Double Topstitch
Steps 1, 2, 3, 5, 4, 6 (exchange steps 4 and 5)

See more options for this seam here.

Find these seams in our book 101 Sewing Seams

When to use this seam?

Curved Edges
  • Curved edges like necklines, armholes and shaped hems (can also be used on straight edges)
  • High quality products
  • Narrow plackets
  • Side openings of tops (shirts, blouses and polos)
  • Heavy fabrics (reduces the thickness of the seam)
  • Unlined garments or accessories
  • Reversible garments

It is not recommended for edges that require stretching.

Types of fabrics and bindings

This seam works better on medium weight or heavyweight fabrics.
If you use it for lightweight fabrics, the quality of the binding must have a similar weight (or lighter) than the main fabric.
“The rule is that the fabric of the binding is not heavier
​than the fabric of the garment or product”
Bias bindings can be purchased or you can make it yourself:

The bias binding is a cloth tape characterised by its adaptability to different shapes. This is due to the elasticity provided by the bias cut of the fabric (45 degrees with respect to the selvages).

If you buy it, you’ll find it in different qualities (poplin and satin are the most common, there are also new ones that are stretchable); in plain colors, with prints, dots and Vichy type.
The most common measures are 10 mm (0.4 in) and 20 mm (0.8 in), although you can also get it from 13 mm (0.5 in), 25 mm (1 in) , 30 mm (1.2 in), and 50 mm (2 in).

The advantage of making the bias binding yourself is that you can use the fabric that you like best to combine, and you can make it as wide as you want.
I usually make my own ones. I use satin or cotton lightweight fabrics most of the times. I also make them of knit fabrics to be used on knitted garments.
Here is a video-tutorial from Treasurie which explains how to make your own bias binding: How to Make Continuous Bias Tape
Curved Edges

​​BONUS | Step-by-Step + Sample Templates

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Belu Chi | ​Technical Designer


My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
​I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.

Picture        Picture

This article is a work in collaboration with Making Patterns Fly.

You can find the pattern of the style in the pictures here: Pattern Duo T-shirt

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