Types of Seams (Part 2)


The sewing culture is almost like science… 
“What we see and what we know about sewing seams is just an introduction to an extensive subject.”



​Diving into the textile industry there are so many types of seams, it is quite hard to keep track of all of them!. However, the most important aspects to consider when we select seams are the same: their properties

That is why today, we’ll be talking about the main properties of 17 groups of seams


Sewing seams properties depends on 3 attributes: 

1. structure of the seam
2. fabric 
3. type of stitch and topstitch


Felled Seam
Bound Seam
French Seam
  • Resistant, flexible and durable.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric (woven and knit) and either on straight or curved seams.
  • Inexpensive.  
  • Strong and resistant.
  • Neat finish on the inside. The binding adds a decorative touch.
  • It works better on medium-weight fabrics.
  • Strong and durable.
  • Clean and neat finishing on the inside, giving a high-end touch to the garment.
  • It works better on light-weight fabrics.
Welt Seam
Lapped Seam
Open Seam
Sandwich Seam
  • One of the strongest construction seams.
  • Clean finish on both sides.
  • It works better on straight seams.
  • Poor elongation recovery.
  • Excellent flexibility and elongation recovery.
  • Suitable on straight and curved seams.
  • Good option to avoid thickness when using heavy-weight fabrics.
  • Very flexible.
  • Good option to avoid thickness 
  • It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
  • Good elongation recovery.
  • Excellent resistance.
  • Clean finish on both sides.
  • Reversible.
  • It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.


Fold Hem
Bound Hem
Faced Hem
Binded Edge
  • The most popular hem on wovens.
  • Good resistance. Durable and strong.
  • Neat finishing on the inside.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric.
  • Very strong and resistant.
  • The binding prevents edge ravelling, stabilises the hem and adds a decorative touch.
  • Good choice to add weight.
  • Durable and flexible.
  • Neat finishing on the inside.
  • It works better on wovens.
  • A piece of interfacing might be needed.
  • Durable and resistant.
  • The binding reinforces the edge, protecting it from fraying, and it adds a decorative touch.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric.
Exposed Band
Unhemmed Edge
Sandwich Hem
  • Good elongation recovery, especially if the band is made of knit fabric or cut on the bias.
  • The band can be used as a tunnel to add an elastic band.
  • It suits to a wide variety of fabrics.
  • Low-cost finishing.
  • Flexible.
  • Versatile: suitable for any fabric and either on straight or curved edges.
  • Flexible and durable.
  • Neat finish on the inside.
  • Excellent versatility.
  • It prevents edge ravelling.


Box Pleat
  • Its main purpose is to give extra volume to the clothing or product.
  • Flexible and versatile.
  • Reversible.
  • It is a type of pleat, formed by two identical pleats that meet together.
  • It adds fullness to a garment.
  • Reversible.
  • It gives more resistance and strength to the garment, or piece of fabric.
  • Durable and flexible.
  • Suitable for almost any fabric.

So, no more confusions to choose sewing constructions, finishes, and details!

BONUS | Seams Properties Chart

Construction Seams
Hems and Finishes

Any questions? 
Please, leave your questions or comment below, or send me an email at belu@abcseams.com

Would you like to read more about sewing seams properties?
Then, visit our seams gallery here. You will find more seams types, their properties, uses, and pictures.


Belu Chi | ​Technical Designer


My mum taught me to sew when I was 15.
​I used to make skirts in every single colour, andt my girlfriends loved them! I later studied Industrial Design, specialized in clothing… and that’s where it all began.

Picture        Picture

The drawings are exclusive styles of Making Patterns Fly

This article was first published at Seampedia.
[ Website ]  [ Article ]


Related Articles

Types of Seams: Classification
Stitch Classification
Book 101 Sewing Seams: Author's Notes
Close Menu
es_ESSpanish en_USEnglish